How many days for Naples

[sharonov]

Nine years ago I spent three weeks on the Amalfi coast, sans husband. Finally he wants to go, so I've planned all but 8 days, based on my April/May 2008 trip. We leave on September 12, and begin with 4 nights in Sorrento (for Pompeii and Herculaneum), 2 nights in Ischia (for the Negombo springs), a week in Amalfi (for itself, Paestum, and Ravello, etc.) and now I have 8 days left over. I do remember that getting used to Naples after the beauty and relative serenity of the Amalfi Coast took a whole day, but I found a lot to do there and ended up loving it. I was especially intrigued by the Roman ruins under the cathedral. but the museums and street scenes were pretty interesting too.

So.........recommendations for my extra days? Should we just spend them all in Naples? We haven't been to Capri, is that worth a couple of nights? I should mention that we're both 75 and my knees can't take too much climbing (which is why we'll be a week in Amalfi, instead of Positano where I stayed last time.) I can do some, just not as much as I did when I was a mere slip of a 65-yr-old. My husband is more physically fit but is somewhat the slug.

 

[Ian Sutton]

If you want to indulge yourselves in just taking it easy, then Ravello might be worth considering. The views are so wonderful, that you can find yourself losing an hour or two watching the sun go down as the boats make their final trips up and down the coast. Ravello is ideal for not doing too much, though there is a lovely walk inland through woodland without the usual steps, as the path follows the contours of the hill. Evenings in the square are really enjoyable, very relaxed with it's self-contained passeggiata.

Napoli scares me, but it has a vibrancy that fascinates and enthralls others. Different strokes. As you did enjoy it last time, this is a good option if you want a more active finish. In going to Pompeii, that adds to the appeal of Napoli, as you'll see lots of what was removed and will be able to mentally picture the exhibits better with that additional context.

Staying on Capri, like staying in Ravello, offers the appeal of having the place in mornings and evenings, without the company of the day trippers. Also the option of boat trips around Capri to spare the knees yet see a different perspective.

Salerno is worth a thought. Lacking the intensity of Napoli and also lacking the historical appeal, yet it's a not unpleasant functional port city on the main train route, but also easily connected to Amalfi coast by bus and boat. It's a good place to venture off to Paestum, and also to see the pottery at Vietri sul Mare. It's relatively flat. Worth consideration if you think that Napoli might be too big a culture shock after the relaxation elsewhere, but you think some exposure to Italy away from the tourists would be good.

Unless taking taxi transfers between locations, I'd avoid trying to fit two additional bases in, purely as the effort of lugging bags on busy buses / ferries can be draining.

With a car, other places might appeal (Caserta etc.), but all the above assume public transport for transfers / getting around (however I'd recommend a taxi from Ravello to the airport if that's the option - too much hassle IMO to lug the bags on multiple busy buses). Should be ~ €100 one way, maybe a fraction more.

When in Amalfi, have a look at the valley of the mills walk, as it avoids lots of steps and takes in much cooling woodland. Either go as far as you want to go & then retrace steps, or take the bus up nearer the 'start' and walk down. I don't recall any steep slopes, though it's been a while. Certainly no steep slopes until you cross over the river. No point in being foolish and walking uphill too much over there! Link it into the little paper museum for additional context.

Amalfi harbour also has small motorboats for hire by the hour, which might appeal as an alternative sightseeing idea, or just a way to escape the hubbub. Alternatively on a stinking hot day, takes the easier coastal road route to Atrani which has a delightfully cool & shady square (and the wonderful A'Paranza seafood restaurant). The Tippett guide walk to Atrani may be short (20-30 mins) but some of the steps are quite steep and there are a lot of steps in such a short walk).

 

[sharonov]

Thanks so much for your very thorough reply, Ian. We do intend to splurge on taxis as we move from location to location; it probably won't cost much more than a three week car rental. If the circumvesuviano is still operating, that's what we'd use to get from Sorrento or Amalfi to Pompeii and Ercolano. I remember Paestum as being a bit tricky, so we may even hire a driver for there!

We've just about decided to leave the last week open and play that part by ear. We'll be taking a bus up to Ravello while staying in Amalfi, so can decide if we want to actually base there for a couple of days or not. Thanks again, you've been a big help.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Sharanov
Circumvesuviana is fine for Pompeii and Sorrento (and I think Herculaneum/Modern Ercolano - others will know for sure) but not for Amalfi, but then you do have the regular SITA buses and ferry services to get to Amalfi, or taxis (GAC usually posts updates to the various schedules).

Taxis between locations is really sensible - IIRC we did this from Ravello to Pogerola, which would have been two busy buses otherwise. A car can be a liability on the Amalfi Coast, unless you've got very specific reasons to have and use one there - and have patience and nerves of steel!

Paestum is a little out of the way, but rather than taxi / bus from Amalfi, there are often organised coach trips going from Amalfi. I believe the independent travel agency l'altracostiera in Amalfi organise them (they have a website), plus the little tourist office kiosk nearer the sea (I presume they have a website as well). Worth checking the schedule as this might include stops that don't interest, or perhaps stops that do interest (Vietri Sul Mare would make great sense).

Although you won't be staying in Positano, there is always the option of the ferry from Amalfi, with the coastal approach to Positano the most picturesque way to see it. You can then spend an hour or two on the (relative) flat by the harbour area, before returning, avoiding those rather steep slopes.

I like your approach of being flexible, as it then gives you the chance to assess exactly how you feel, leaving all options open. Very astute

regards
Ian

p.s. Have a nice cake from/in Andrea Pansa (Amalfi) for me - I still have fond recollections of some very tasty morsels.

 

[Pauline]

If you stay in Naples, consider seeing Pompeii and Herculaneum from there. I think the train ride is shorter than from Sorrento. There are also two other Pompeii-like sites there. I'll post again about them. I haven't seen them yet but @Jim Zurer has and wrote about them.

We are going to Positano again in early November. I wanted to stay in Amalfi this time but could not find a vacation rental without lots of steps. Did you find one, or are you in a hotel? Instead we are staying in lower Positano.

Paestum is fabulous. @BryanS and @Valerie took us there and I remember them commenting on how you would get to the site from the train station. I tagged them so they can post about that.

We considered Capri for 3 nights on our trip but decided against. It would be very crowded there in September.

For your 8 extra days you could do 4 days in Naples and lengthen your Ischia and Sorrento stays.

 

[jan]

We are planning a week in Naples next April. Probably will do day trips to Pompeii and one coast day but I am looking forward to an apartment stay in the vibrant city.

 

[and]

I second the suggestion for Ravello on the Amalfi Coast. It's the most flattest of all the Amalfi Coast towns, that is once you climb that hell of a road and actually get there, but once there, it's pretty much flat and easy on the foot and boasts the most gorgeous views of the Amalfi Coast down below.

And Ravello is abound with cultural events, especially in September, there's one almost every single day: exhibitions, concerts. As I've suggested to Pauline in some other thread, you can check what's going on, event wise, here: https://www.ravello.com/events/

Also, I hear they opened a new Museum just this year in Villa Rufolo in Ravello, inside the newly renovated Moorish Tower, the large 30m tower with a splendid panorama at its top. Not only that, but they offer guided tours for just 2 euro extra, but this needs to be booked in advance. It's on my to-do list for next time when I'm in the area.

 

[ellen]

I love Naples and if you were comfortable there before, I'd give it a second try because there is so much to see and do there.

As for travel between Naples, Herculeneum (Ercolano), and Sorrento, the Circumvesuviana is the public transit option for most people. I would strongly encourage you to consider the higher priced but far more comfortable (and safer) option of the Campania Express. It only runs a few times each day so you have to plan around it but I find it well worth the effort. The schedule is here: http://www.eavsrl.it/web/content/campania-express-2017-it

 

[sharonov]

Thanks everyone. We almost had to cancel the trip due to my husband having a pinched nerve that is causing a great deal of pain in his shoulder/arm. But it's improving a little so he is determined to tough it out. So now, just two weeks away, I'm getting very excited. I thank everyone for their suggestions, which have added to the excitement. I'm practicing my Italian (which is almost all gone by now) so that I don't make the same mistake I made 9 years ago. I was determined to get to Paestum from Positano on my own; everything went fine until I got on the wrong train at Sorrento. Somehow I ended up on the Eurostar and had to ride to Sapri! I "talked" the conductor out of charging me (he's probably still talking about the crazy lady), but had to wait an hour for the train back to Paestum. It ended up taking an entire day! But I saw Paestum.