After visiting Edinburgh, we're thinking about Inverness. It looks like a beautiful little city, complete with a castle--is it a good place to spend 4 or 5 days? Maybe longer? For those who have been to both Inverness and Durham, which would you recommend if you had to choose?
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Inverness?
- Thread starter sharonov
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Eleanor
1000+ Posts
It is impossible to compare Durham and Inverness - they are completely different....The historic centre of Durham with the castle and cathedral is very small and enclosed in a loop of the river. Inverness is much larger and very much a regional centre as well as tourist destination. People either seem to love it or hate it. It does get a bad press on forums like Fodors which does seem a bit tough. I like Inverness and the area around is definitely a good place to spend 3-4 days exploring as there is so much to see and do. You don't have to stop in Inverness itself. A few years ago NAIRN suddenly hit the headlines as THE place to stay.
Top of my list of places to visit would be FORT GEORGE, possibly the mightiest artillery fortification in Britain which was built after the Battle of Culloden to control the Highlands and crush future Jacobite Rebellions. The scale is impressive and it is virtually unchanged since it was built. It still remains one of the largest and most impregnable fortifications in Europe. However by the time it was finished, the Highlands were relatively calm and it never saw action. There is a story, maybe apocryphal that one shot was fired by a jittery soldier one night who thought he saw a Jacobite soldier creeping up on the fort,and fired at him. Next morning the guards found the body of a dead cow...
The fort is still used by the military and soldiers are seen around the site. Security is taken seriously and there is a notice explaining visitors are asked to only take essential items of personal luggage and may be subject to search.
I've mentioned CULLODEN. This is on most people's itinerary but to be honest, I found the battlefield rather a bleak expanse of moorland. The grave slabs commemorating the fdifferent clansd were erected later. Although a nice touch, they don't actually indicate where the different clan members were buried. There were so many dead afdter the battle they were just dumped in mass graves with no attempt to identify the different clan members. Thgere is a large visitor centre, but I find the story is more evocative than the place...
Close to the battlefield and much more interesting is CLAVA CAIRNS, especially when seen late afternoon when the sun is low and ther eis no-one else around. It is a magical place with burial cairns dating back 3000-4000years.
LOCH NESS perhaps isn't the most interesting of the Scottish Lochs apart from the legend of the monster... The Loch Ness experiences are a bit tacky but different companies do offer cruises of the loch. The ruins of URQUHART CASTLE offer some of the best views and are worth visiting.
Just a short drive west of Urquhart Castle is GLEN AFFRIC possibly one of the prettiest glens in Scotland - do a Google image search . There are lots of good walks around here. even if you are not walkers. the PLODDA FALLS WALK is one of the best short walks and is very easy (honest!).
CAWDOR CASTLE is just a short drive from Inverness. Often linked with Shakespeare's Macbeth, the castle website is at great pains to point out that Macbeth died in 1057 and was never Thjane of Cawdor. The castle actually dates from the C14th. It is surrounded by attractive grounds and gardens but we found the outside more attractive than the inside, which could best be described as unexciting... as was the tea room.
we much preferred BALINDALLOCH CASTLE south of Elgin (again worth visiting with its ruined cathedral) and about 50 miles drive from Inverness. It also has lovely gardens and a VERY good tea room. The rooms are superbly furnished whilke remaining very much a loved family home. 'Herself' was also around talking to visitors.
A bit further to drive and north of Inverness is the turreted DUNROBIN CASTLE, home of the Dukes of Sutherland. This has been on my 'todo' list for years but I've still not managed it...
Then there is the BLACK ISLE to explore with lovely small towns like CROMARTY and AVOCH. If you are lucky you may see Bottle Nosed Dolphins from CHANONRY POINT.
You can even do a day tour to Orkney... and I've hardly scratched the surface!
Top of my list of places to visit would be FORT GEORGE, possibly the mightiest artillery fortification in Britain which was built after the Battle of Culloden to control the Highlands and crush future Jacobite Rebellions. The scale is impressive and it is virtually unchanged since it was built. It still remains one of the largest and most impregnable fortifications in Europe. However by the time it was finished, the Highlands were relatively calm and it never saw action. There is a story, maybe apocryphal that one shot was fired by a jittery soldier one night who thought he saw a Jacobite soldier creeping up on the fort,and fired at him. Next morning the guards found the body of a dead cow...
The fort is still used by the military and soldiers are seen around the site. Security is taken seriously and there is a notice explaining visitors are asked to only take essential items of personal luggage and may be subject to search.
I've mentioned CULLODEN. This is on most people's itinerary but to be honest, I found the battlefield rather a bleak expanse of moorland. The grave slabs commemorating the fdifferent clansd were erected later. Although a nice touch, they don't actually indicate where the different clan members were buried. There were so many dead afdter the battle they were just dumped in mass graves with no attempt to identify the different clan members. Thgere is a large visitor centre, but I find the story is more evocative than the place...
Close to the battlefield and much more interesting is CLAVA CAIRNS, especially when seen late afternoon when the sun is low and ther eis no-one else around. It is a magical place with burial cairns dating back 3000-4000years.
LOCH NESS perhaps isn't the most interesting of the Scottish Lochs apart from the legend of the monster... The Loch Ness experiences are a bit tacky but different companies do offer cruises of the loch. The ruins of URQUHART CASTLE offer some of the best views and are worth visiting.
Just a short drive west of Urquhart Castle is GLEN AFFRIC possibly one of the prettiest glens in Scotland - do a Google image search . There are lots of good walks around here. even if you are not walkers. the PLODDA FALLS WALK is one of the best short walks and is very easy (honest!).
CAWDOR CASTLE is just a short drive from Inverness. Often linked with Shakespeare's Macbeth, the castle website is at great pains to point out that Macbeth died in 1057 and was never Thjane of Cawdor. The castle actually dates from the C14th. It is surrounded by attractive grounds and gardens but we found the outside more attractive than the inside, which could best be described as unexciting... as was the tea room.
we much preferred BALINDALLOCH CASTLE south of Elgin (again worth visiting with its ruined cathedral) and about 50 miles drive from Inverness. It also has lovely gardens and a VERY good tea room. The rooms are superbly furnished whilke remaining very much a loved family home. 'Herself' was also around talking to visitors.
A bit further to drive and north of Inverness is the turreted DUNROBIN CASTLE, home of the Dukes of Sutherland. This has been on my 'todo' list for years but I've still not managed it...
Then there is the BLACK ISLE to explore with lovely small towns like CROMARTY and AVOCH. If you are lucky you may see Bottle Nosed Dolphins from CHANONRY POINT.
You can even do a day tour to Orkney... and I've hardly scratched the surface!
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Thank you Eleanor, that is exactly what I needed! Perhaps I'll even rent a car for a few days and brave the left side.
Although you say it's impossible to compare Durham and Inverness, you have done so quite well. It sounds as though Durham would be a nice stopover on the way back to London (unless we try the much quicker method of flying from Inverness) whereas Inverness would be the place to spend more time.
Years ago we spent a week in Edinburgh (sans car) and found umpteen day trips to other Scottish points of interest. We even had an overnight to Skye. Perhaps the same day trips are available from Inverness (hope, hope) so I won't have to take my heart in my hands and do the car thing. Funny--I think the only thing that would really bother me about driving on the left is roundabouts. We have very, very few where I live, and even when I drive on the continent, I have to concentrate mightily to remember who goes first, who has the right of way, etc.
Although you say it's impossible to compare Durham and Inverness, you have done so quite well. It sounds as though Durham would be a nice stopover on the way back to London (unless we try the much quicker method of flying from Inverness) whereas Inverness would be the place to spend more time.
Years ago we spent a week in Edinburgh (sans car) and found umpteen day trips to other Scottish points of interest. We even had an overnight to Skye. Perhaps the same day trips are available from Inverness (hope, hope) so I won't have to take my heart in my hands and do the car thing. Funny--I think the only thing that would really bother me about driving on the left is roundabouts. We have very, very few where I live, and even when I drive on the continent, I have to concentrate mightily to remember who goes first, who has the right of way, etc.
Eleanor
1000+ Posts
I love Durham - I spent six years there at university. It is a wonderful city and would make a good place for a break on your way back south.
I'm not sure that I would want to drive in Inverness itself as it does get busy but if you decide to stop outside Inverness there shouldn't be a problem. Roads up there are quiet, even in the summer and there probably aren't that many roundabouts to contend with. Actually they are easy. Unlike the 4 way crossings we found in Canada which scared the living daylights out of us until we got used to them. You don't have to worry about who arrives first. Just give way to traffic on the roundabout coming from your right.
If you are not wanting to drive, Rabbies does have several day tours leaving from Inverness. There's also more information here. A car would give you a lot more flexibility though.
I've just remembered I'd forgotten to mention Dornoch, another rather nice little town to the north of Inverness. This was a bit out on a limb until Madonna decided to have her son christened in the cathedral. Rather than take the fast route round the coast, go out along the old road, B9176 ,which branches north around Alness and goes over Struie. This is slow and deserted but on a fine day, the views at the top make it worth the detour. You can always come back the fast route...
I'm not sure that I would want to drive in Inverness itself as it does get busy but if you decide to stop outside Inverness there shouldn't be a problem. Roads up there are quiet, even in the summer and there probably aren't that many roundabouts to contend with. Actually they are easy. Unlike the 4 way crossings we found in Canada which scared the living daylights out of us until we got used to them. You don't have to worry about who arrives first. Just give way to traffic on the roundabout coming from your right.
If you are not wanting to drive, Rabbies does have several day tours leaving from Inverness. There's also more information here. A car would give you a lot more flexibility though.
I've just remembered I'd forgotten to mention Dornoch, another rather nice little town to the north of Inverness. This was a bit out on a limb until Madonna decided to have her son christened in the cathedral. Rather than take the fast route round the coast, go out along the old road, B9176 ,which branches north around Alness and goes over Struie. This is slow and deserted but on a fine day, the views at the top make it worth the detour. You can always come back the fast route...
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Thanks again, Eleanor. Yes, I love the flexibility of a car, and will look into possibilities re staying outside of the city. Although I drive a stick shift whenever we travel (on the continent) there's also the problem of reverse shifting. It costs double to rent a standard transmission. So much to consider! But this gives me so much information that I can use for planning.
Pauline
Forums Admin
I have been driving in the UK for over 10 years. I started on trips a few years before we moved here. Before that Steve did all the UK driving. Now we split the driving and I enjoy the driving. It took me three short drives to get used to it and then I was fine. The thing I found hardest at the first was not driving on the left - you get used to that quickly - nor the roundabouts, but the narrow roads and having to drive along a line of cars parked on the road.
Because we drive on the continent in cars we rent, I spend part of the year driving on the other side. I usually do fine switching back and forth but for a month or two after a trip, I can no longer remember which side of the car has the steering wheel. I duck down behind the car, have a look, then choose my side. I still do that!
For roundabouts, it is only in very busy areas with those huge multi-laned roundabouts (usually near London) where I get nervous. Enter cautiously giving way to traffic in the roundabout or coming towards you on the drivers side and if there are lanes watch the markings and made sure you are in the one for your exit. Drivers are usually polite here. Take your time in the roundabout and if you miss your exit, just go around one more time.
I don't really like roundabouts and wish we had more traffic lights, but there must be a good rationale for using them. They do seem to keep the traffic flowing.
I remember how proud I was when I did my first parallel park here! (It was in Blockley, near Chipping Campden, in the Cotswolds and on a hill.)