Followup question: if I end up staying at Amalfi, is there a particular area one might recommend that's easy to use as a base (without a car)? Or even a hotel?
It's been a while since we stayed there, and things can change. I recall some fellow tourists speaking highly of Il Saraceno, which was a modest walk up to coast, but looks like it has closed. We once stayed in the one up near Pogerola (Grand Excelsior), which was quite old school in the full board dining experience, but had a nice pool. Served by regular non-touristy buses, but they also had their own shuttle bus service.
Since those early trips, we've reverted back to apartment stays for that sense of being closer to the local culture. L'Altracostiera themselves act as a letting agent, and had an eclectic selection on their books.
Without a car, is IMO the most advisable way to approach the Amalfi coast. There are lots of steep and winding roads, which can require reversing to enable cars to pass each other (and the buses), plus the coastal road can be very busy. It's easy to use the:
- SITA buses, which have regular services and even pretty impressive at putting replacement buses on when overly busy
- Ferries, if staying on the coast, these can be a joy, with the approach into Positano by boat especially recommended
- Walking. the Julian Tippett 'pocket' book in the sunflower series remains invaluable. Not always the best instructions, nor indeed covering all the best walks, but it's such a useful resource and makes for great planning
Ideally look for somewhere that's within an easy walking distance of Piazza Flavio Gioia (which is on the edge of the beach, where the buses go from, and a very short walk from where the ferries dock). How far is easy walking? That's your call, but I reckon 15-20 minutes is a good radius, but I'd definitely walk further for the right place. That distance would even include Atrani, but I'm wary of recommending it even though I love going there... as its unique architecture, built into the viaduct) means you'd miss the views of the coast. Well worth a visit though especially on a hot day, as the shelter it gives is rewarding. A'Paranza looks like it's still there - a wonderful place to explore the local seafood.