Tina
100+ Posts
SARDINIA IN MAY TRIP REPORT
We spent 16 nights in Sardinia in May 2024. We travelled to Sardinia by ferry taking our car with us, using the Grimaldi lines service between Livorno and Olbia. We chose to travel by day and for us it was a relaxing and enjoyable option. We travelled down the day before, sleeping nearby so as to be at the ferry port for about 8 o’clock.We have visited Sardinia several times before but it was 15 years since we had visited this part of Sardinia and at the time we explored inland places as much as the coast. This time we concentrated on the beautiful coastal landscapes - yes, beaches, but for walking, not for lying in the sun.
We spent the first week at Monte Petrosu, south of Olbia, in an apartment. The position was convenient because most of the beaches we wanted to see ranged from a ten-minute drive (Cala Brandinchi and Cala Lu Impostu, to about 20 minutes to La Cinta of San Teodoro. Our longest drive was to see Capo Comino which was about an hour by car. It was the second week of May but there were already some beach bars open with sun loungers and umbrellas available, and even a pizzeria on the beach in Budoni. Parking was still free in all the car parks nearest to the beaches except for the one nearest to La Cinta in San Teodoro.
The weather was good. A little cloud the first couple of days and then sun. Sometimes a little windy, but normal in Sardinia. Some people were already swimming – I paddled and then I waded but I didn’t get any further. It’s been a cold spring so far. In the past I have swum earlier in May but in the south of Sardinia. This time it just felt too cold - or maybe I'm older and more cautious!
We self catered. For the first week we ended up doing our shopping for the week mostly at the Conad in Olbia, supplemented later in the week by the new Eurospin in Budoni. Both supermarkets had a (limited) selection of local food products, mainly cheese and bakery products. Fresh fish was hard to come by.
There were a handful of people on the beaches everywhere, more towards Olbia and San Teodoro, hardly anyone down by Posada and Capo Comino.
This was a coast and nature holiday although we spent half a day in Olbia for a little sightseeing and could have spent longer.
After the week in Monte Petrosu we spent two nights in Sassari and had planned to visit Sassari, Alghero, Costa Argentiera, Castelsardo and Stintino. This was too ambitious anyway and didn’t work out quite as planned for other reasons. We liked Sassari, even if it is a bit gritty, and probably needed longer there. In one day we had an excellent meal and visited the centre and some churches but didn’t have time to visit any museums. The other full day was spent visiting Alghero – a pretty historical centre but too many tourists for our liking, Lago Baratz – not planned and so just a glimpse, and the Costa Argentiera. The covered market in Sassari near our accommodation had a good choice of fish and our favourite Nieddetas Mussels.
From Sassari we went to the weekly market in Porto Torres to stock up on local food and from there drove north, just through Catselsardo without stopping, via Isola Rossa to our destination for the second week at Capo Testa near Santa Teresa di Gallura. We loved the week there. Partly due to the apartment at Capo Testa, just a ten-minute walk from the lighthouse so we could admire the sunset every evening and for the views of the sea on both sides. Our days there were usually spent walking along the coast in the mornings – early mornings were often cloudy and then cleared, with a rest on the beach before going back home for lunch and a rest and then a trip to explore some beaches or the coast, usually ten or fifteen minutes by car or on foot from the apartment to the starting point. The coast between Rena Maiore and Portobello di Gallura is easily walkable with quiet empty coves, longer beaches and fantastic Mediterranean vegetation in flower.
The only time we would have had to pay for parking near the beach was at Isola dei Gabbiani, in the other direction, towards Olbia, which was packed with kite-surfers. Apart from that, the beaches were much quieter than those near Olbia. Just a handful of people or nobody at all. The weather was similar to the previous week except for a half day and night of solid rain. Food was also similar – there was a good Eurospin in Santa Teresa and the Despar was also good – in particular there was local meat, good goat ricotta and friendly staff. You’re right, I didn’t mention the fish. Food is generally good in Italy, of course, but Sardinia is definitely not as good for food or fresh fish as Sicily, or even better Puglia. I'm talking about local produce here, more than eating out in restaurants. Sardinia imports a lot from the mainland, especially the area around Olbia.
For our return journey we got up early, Santa Teresa to Olbia is just over an hour by car, little traffic so early in the morning and in low season and it was a relaxing return cruise to Livorno.
Sardinia for us is an ideal place to visit in April and May if you are looking for spectacular seascapes, empty beaches, hiking amongst flowers along the coast. It’s quiet, few tourists, empty roads, no stray dogs, although I smelt wild boar a couple of times and saw one dead by the roadside. Some beach facilities were already open so especially at the weekend you could get a beer or a coffee on the beach or nearby. Parking by the beach was still mostly free. I suspect we are once again hooked and will be going back to Sardegna next May, all being well.
Here's our complete itinerary
Day 1: Olbia, Porto Istana, Cala Girgolu, Punta Molara
Day 2 Punta Molara, Capo Coda Cavallo
Day 3: Beaches: Cala Brandinchi, Cala Lu Impostu, La Cinta Di San Teodoro
Day 4 Beaches: Iscràios In Posada and Capo Comino Spiaggia Delle Dune In Siniscola
Day 5 Beaches: Porto Taverna and Cala Finanza
Day 6 Budoni Beaches
Day 7 Sassari
Day 8 Alghero Porto Ferro and Costa Argentiera
Day 9 Isola Rossa To Capo Testa, Santa Teresa Di Gallura
Day 10 Santa Teresa Di Gallura - Capo Testa
Day 11 Rena Maiore - Cala Pischina Hike and Santa Reparata
Day 12 - Naracu Nieddu To Vignola Hike and Santa Reparata Bay
Day 13 - Santa Teresa Di Gallura
Day 14 - La Marmorata, Isola Dei Gabbiani, Porto Liscia, Rena Maiore
Day 15 - Hiking From Vignola To Portobello Di Gallura
