Piano Grande

[Sharon J]

I would like some advice on a day trip from Montepulciano to Piano Grande. We stay at Sant'Antonio for a week every year. We have visited most towns, and never grow tired of revisiting our favorites. However, we usually try to take a day trip to a new place each visit. Last year, we went to Lucca for the first time. Could I have some thoughts for a new day trip adventure. Piano Grande and Pisa are two places, and perhaps Cinque Terre, which we have not visited, but would like to hear your thoughts. I'm thinking Cinque Terre might be too far? We have visited most of the well known towns of Umbria as well. I might add that Orvieto is our favorite town of all, and we ALWAYS return there every year. Please note, we have visited all the major large and small towns in Tuscany.

P.S. Forget Civita Bagna Reggio. Almost killed us on our last trip, (we've been twice). That walk across the land bridge doesn't look steep, when you start, but it felt like climbing Mt. Everest to these old bodies. I do recommend it for the fit, however, at least once in your life!

Sharon J

 

[Ian Sutton]

Sorry no experience of Piano Grande, but I will put a good and bad word in for Pisa, a place I typically refer to as a mass tourism blot on the landscape AND an under the radar gem.

The former is the area immediately around the field of miracles, and on the direct route there from either train station

The latter is a surprisingly under-touristed small city of charm and character, with some good food, fairly priced, and a pleasingly bustling main street, with decent morning market off the the side of it on the northern bank of the river, plus characteristic vibrant patterned churches.

So get off the train at the main station, then walk up towards Corso Italia, continuing over the river onto via Oberdan, but exploring off either side as the whim takes you. By all means visit the tower / field of miracles, but approach it via Capponi or Via Maffi to avoid the worst impacts of mass tourism, and don't think of eating or drinking anywhere nearby.

Regards
Ian

 

[Alpinista]

Cinque Terre is a bit of hike?? However, if you don't mind that type of a drive, I'd suggest Portovenere instead. You get much of the feel of CT in Portovenere with about 20% of the crowds. You can take a water ferry from Portovenere to/from the CT towns if you also want to fit them in.

 

[Kathy]

We did a day trip to Norcia and the Piano Grande when we stayed in Umbria several years ago. I absolutely loved it. We were there in July when wildflowers were blooming... truly magical. But this would be quite a long day trip from Montepulciano.

Pisa is interesting for the beautiful architecture on the Field of Miracles, but unfortunately is very touristy. (Lots of vendors hawking souvenirs.) And depending on when you'll visit, you may also find crowds at the Cinque Terre. Alpinista may have a good idea for you. (We did a day trip to Santa Margherita Ligure... but it would be too far for a day trip... maybe overnight.)

Have you been to Volterra? (I'm thinking yes, but wanted to mention it anyway.)

Kathy

 

[Sharon J]

Thanks everyone. Yes Kathy, we've been to Volterra and really enjoyed it. My husband wants to do Pisa, but like many of you have mentioned, I just dread the crowds. I actually want to drive down to Gaeta, but husband feels it's too far. I lived there in the late 60's (Navy) but have only been back once. When we stay in Positano, we usually fly from Rome to Naples, and hire a driver, so always miss it I do think we want to visit the little chapel inside the larger church where St. Francis prayed. Maybe, that would be a good day trip? Decisions, decisions!!!

 

[Alpinista]

You can take away a lot of the stress of visiting Pisa by purchasing your entry tickets in advance. We go to Pisa once or twice every year and the crowds really aren't that horrible (disclosure is that we rarely do more than send whatever friends we are hosting on to their sightseeing while we go wandering around and just enjoy people watching and the occasional bar).

During the renovations of the Museo delle Sinopie, they cleared all the vendor stalls off the facing street (between the museum and the duomo) and significantly reduced the congestion in that area. I don't know if that change is permanent, but let's hope. We always park in a surface lot off of Via Piave, immediately outside the town wall and a very short walk to the gate leading to the Piazza dei Miracoli (do a Google Search for Cinema Estivo Roma in Pisa and you'll see the parking lot just below and to the right of the theater on the map). There are a couple little neighborhood restaurants on Via Piave if you want to avoid the more touristy places in the city.

 

[Pauline]

I've always wanted to see Norcia and the Piano Grande but it was closed when we were in Spoleto for a week last May! Because of that horrible earthquake! The roads are open now.

I don't like doing such long drives (I have a bad back that reacts to time in cars) but it seems like you enjoy the drives. Is it possible to do some of these places before or after your Tuscany trip and spend a night or two in them, or is everything booked?

Have you been to southern Tuscany, northern Lazio? Pitigliano, Saturnia? Probably yes, since you've been to Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio (a place I would like to go - thanks for the heads up about that bridge which might be too high for me to feel comfortable on).

 

[Red Red Wine]

Hi, my post about the Monte Sibillini may be of interest: http://paradiseofexiles.com/the-monti-sibillini-italys-secret-corner/

 

[Sharon J]

Hi, my post about the Monte Sibillini may be of interest: http://paradiseofexiles.com/the-monti-sibillini-italys-secret-corner/

Thank you for the article. Looks wonderful. I'll do some more homework.

 

[Sharon J]

Thanks Pauline. Yes, we have done Pitigliano, which we love and that whole Saturnia area. Quite a lovely drive through there, and even a golf course and hot springs. We also did a day trip to the Chianti region, visiting the Barone Ricasoli Winery (with castle). I love Chianti Classico, so off we went. They have a lovely tasting room, and we had arranged for the Tour Picnic Day. It was all included in a neat backpack (which you keep) with plates, glasses, flatware, and a lovely bottle of wine. They then drove us out to a beautiful picnic area overlooking the vineyards and castle. Perfect day. Sorry, got a bit sidetracked there. We've also been up to Volterra and Greve.

I'm just hoping with everyone's experience on this board, we will find that one place we've missed, although I'm sure there are many.

 

[Red Red Wine]

Thank you for the article. Looks wonderful. I'll do some more homework.

You are very welcome, glad it helped.

 

[Sharon J]

P.S. Forget Civita Bagna Reggio. Almost killed us on our last trip, (we've been twice). That walk across the land bridge doesn't look steep, when you start, but it felt like climbing Mt. Everest to these old bodies. I do recommend it for the fit, however, at least once in your life!

Pauline, don't let the bridge scare you off. Yes, it's very high off the ground, but is very strong, made of cement and cement high sides, so you really don't have to look straight down. You are in great shape for such a climb, so not to worry. I only mention how hard it was for us, because we were with another couple, and although he was in his late 40's at the time, he had a mild heart condition. Half way up, he began to have a real problem, and it really frightened us. He continued very slowly, and stopped many times for a rest. It's just much steeper than it appears. We did reach the little town, and he did fine the rest of the day.

 

[Pauline]

Pauline, don't let the bridge scare you off.

Thanks for the detailed description. I had imagined you could see through the walkway. I still think I would have to go in quick back-out mode in case the heights affected me.

 

[Sandrac]

Piano Grande can be gorgeous but it could be a very long drive up there from where you'll be staying - the map says it is about 200 km, which (as a Canadian) I wouldn't find terribly far to drive, except that the road grows more and more narrow as you go up and in spots, the traffic can be actually quite dense because it is such a slow, windy rural road. You might be looking at close to 4 hours one way. Just something to think about.

Do you know Montone and some of the tiny, but delightful hilltop villages in Umbria? Arrone? And in your area of Tuscany, have you seen the Madonna of the Cat Door in the delightful little town of Montemerano? I'm tempted to buy an apartment there every time I visit. Or, in Manciano.

Best,
Sandra

 

[Ann]

Sharon, I assume you've been south to Radicofani and Abbadia San Salvatore, where there's a wonderful family-run restaurant, Lacorria. Another great family-run place for lunch is I Lecce, near Castiglione D'Orcia. When will you all be at Sant'Antonio?

 

[Sharon J]

Sharon, I assume you've been south to Radicofani and Abbadia San Salvatore, where there's a wonderful family-run restaurant, Lacorria. Another great family-run place for lunch is I Lecce, near Castiglione D'Orcia. When will you all be at Sant'Antonio?

Hi Ann, I'm not sure we've ever been to either, so will make a note for both. We will definitely try one, or both, if they aren't too close together. Do you prefer one over the other?

We will be at Sant'Antonio for a week, beginning June 9th of this year, and another week, May 25th of 2019. Love that property, and Nico has become a good friend. Do you have plans for a visit? We'll be in your neck of the woods on Maui at Kapalua this April. Haven't been back since we sold our property, and it's a much harder trip now that we live in South Carolina. We now rent our place, so it feels like home.

Sharon

 

[Ann]

Hi Sharon. Radicofani and Abbadia San Salvatore are about half an hour apart, and the drive between the two is beautiful. I'd go to Radicofani first -- be sure to visit the fortress there, and there are some marvelous della Robbias in a couple of the churches. Abbadia San Salvatore isn't as interesting, but the restaurant is worth the trip (at least it was several years ago). Nothing fancy, just the essential family-run trattoria.

We'll be in Venice for 3 weeks in April, with a few days in Verona. It was a toss-up between there and Montepulciano, so I suppose we'll have to return to the latter next trip to Italy, maybe in May 2019! Be sure to give Nico our best.

BTW, the drive from Sant'Antonio to Castiglione d'Orica is about half-an-hour -- another beautiful drive, in case you haven't been there, and I Lecce is a treat.

 

[Sharon J]

Hi Sharon. Radicofani and Abbadia San Salvatore are about half an hour apart, and the drive between the two is beautiful. I'd go to Radicofani first -- be sure to visit the fortress there, and there are some marvelous della Robbias in a couple of the churches. Abbadia San Salvatore isn't as interesting, but the restaurant is worth the trip (at least it was several years ago). Nothing fancy, just the essential family-run trattoria.

We'll be in Venice for 3 weeks in April, with a few days in Verona. It was a toss-up between there and Montepulciano, so I suppose we'll have to return to the latter next trip to Italy, maybe in May 2019! Be sure to give Nico our best.

BTW, the drive from Sant'Antonio to Castiglione d'Orica is about half-an-hour -- another beautiful drive, in case you haven't been there, and I Lecce is a treat.

Ann, I definitely think Sant'Antonio is a must for 2019. Thanks for the great info. We're tacking on Varenna and Venice after our week with Nico in 2019.

 

[Roz]

Sharon, did you see my trip report on the Val d'Orcia while staying in Montepulciano? I'm sure you've been to many of the places we visited on day trips, but I wonder if you've ever taken the drive around Monte Amiata, which I wrote about there (scroll down to Page 12). We visited several small towns that are off the more popular tourist radar, and especially enjoyed the Daniel Spoerri sculpture garden. Links to many of those places are at the end of my report.

Speaking of sculpture gardens, if you haven't been to the Niki de Saint Phalle Giardino dei Tarocchi, that was one of the most memorable places I've visited in Italy. It is a couple of hours' drive, but no farther than Pisa, which you were also considering.

 

[Sharon J]

Thanks Roz. I went back and re-read your trip report. More fun this time, since we are now familiar with so many of the places you mention. Love your photo's. I have written down many of the places you mentioned, and the garden you recommended looks fascinating. So much beauty in Tuscany, and so much to see. Thanks again.