Southern Italy - looking for any suggestions.....

[Kevin Widrow]

Having been to many parts of Italy over the years, we've never made it to Naples and points south - so this lacuna is soon to be rectified !

Would be interested in anyone's suggestions on favorite sights to see, nice walks to do and especially top restaurants (local food, relaxed) that would meld with this travel plan:

Napoli
Trani
Monopoli
Lecce

Staying in a mixture of B&Bs and apartments with time a plenty to take things in and practive a bit of our Italian.

Grazie !

 

[Chris]

Hi Kevin! I haven't been to southern Italy either, so I'm no help, but I just wanted to say hello!

 

[Kevin Widrow]

Hello back ! It's been a while (too long actually) !!!!

best,
kevin

 

[Pauline]

We were in Naples once and liked it. I have always meant to return. The archaeological museum is amazing. You can take the train to Pompeii and Herculaneum.

In spring we spent a week in Puglia, based in Ostuni. I like the trulli area. @jonathan knows this area well. We did not make it to Lecce but should have gone. It is supposed to be beautiful. I wrote a trip report in the Trip Reports forum. Didn't go to Monopoli either, nor Trani (trying not to make a transgender joke).

So I really have nothing to add except Puglia was very interesting. It didn't grab me the way other parts of Italy have but we had a good week there. The place I loved was Matera, just over the border in Basilicata.

 

[jonathan]

Hi Kevin! We lunched in Monopoli a couple of weeks ago: Osteria Perricci is a simple, local place, focusing on seafood. It's just on the edge of the centro storico.

Lecce is gorgeous: lots of over-the-top baroque architecture, in the lovely local pietra leccese honey-coloured stone which positively glows in the late afternoon sun. Our favourite place there is Trattoria Cucine Casereccia.

We've only been to Trani once, and it must be about 10 years ago now. The harbour area is super, and the Duomo has a spectacular site; again, there are lots of good seafood options round the harbour, but I can't remember the name of the one we tried (and it could well have changed since then...).

Walks - yes... As I'm sure you've met already, Italian walking paths and signposting fall well below the French standard! And the south is especially bad; paths shown on the map become impassable; there's no knowing whether an inviting looking track leads to a locked gate, a snarling dog on a chain, or a superb walk... But there are a few designated nature reserves, which do have good (semi-)signposted paths: Torre Guaceto, between Brindisi & Ostuni, is the one we know best.

 

[Kevin Widrow]

Hi Jonathan,

I was just thinking as I logged in this morning that I should get in touch with you ! Pauline's note reminded me that we'd spoken briefly about Puglia when we were hiking (was that last year ???). Thanks so much for the restaurant ideas, any other really top favorites would be great as we'll be doing lots of touring around and hitting many of the villages and towns I am sure. Elisabeth is not one to leave any stones unturned !

To Pauline (or anyone else with an opinion): if you only had time for either Pompeii or Herculaneum ? I've been leaning towards Pompeii only because it is one of those rare truly iconic world renowned sights. Elisabeth isn't so keen and is thinking Herculaneum might be a better visit. Yesterday bumped into friends who went to both and said Pompeii hands down. They didn't have a guide, just a good guide book and said that was the way to go (so guide or not, that's another question).

- Kevin

 

[Pauline]

To Pauline (or anyone else with an opinion): if you only had time for either Pompeii or Herculaneum ? I've been leaning towards Pompeii only because it is one of those rare truly iconic world renowned sights. Elisabeth isn't so keen and is thinking Herculaneum might be a better visit. Yesterday bumped into friends who went to both and said Pompeii hands down. They didn't have a guide, just a good guide book and said that was the way to go (so guide or not, that's another question).

Pompeii! Herculaneum is interesting, but it is small. Pompeii is vast. We did not have a guide, but had a book. We were there in 2001 (when we stayed in Sorrento) and I have been thinking of going back.

 

[ncp]

Pompeii! Herculaneum is interesting, but it is small. Pompeii is vast. We did not have a guide, but had a book. We were there in 2001 (when we stayed in Sorrento) and I have been thinking of going back.

For those thinking of Pompeii, we stayed at a very nice place, not expensive, and literally right across the street from the ruins. They even had parking for our rental car! Made exploring the ruins so very easy!

 

[Valerie]

Depends on what atmsophere and experience you're looking for - there's lots to see in the south! Lecce, Otranto, and the Valle d'Itria in Puglia are all beautiful and interesting. Matera is completely unique and you must spend at least one night there to get the most of it (at night it's magical in the Sassi). Upland Basilicata is raw and unbridled type of beauty with the rugged mountains (where we live). Coast south of Paestum (a must see) is lovely and unspoiled. So...depends!

 

[ellen]

I've spent at least a week in Naples each year for the past five and I've come to love it there as much as I love Rome, something I never thought possible.

I have two favorite restaurants in Naples, quite different from one another.

One is 'Ntretella, just off Via Chiaia on the edge of the Spanish Quarter. It's very small, family run, and for me, quintessentially Italian. Web site here: http://www.locandantretella.com/

The other is more avant-garde, great food with both a lovely indoor setting as well as seating in a gazebo on the piazza. Il Garum, in Piazza Monteoliveto, is near Gesu Nuovo and Santa Chiara and, incidentally, it's got a fabulous bathroom. http://www.ristoranteilgarum.it/

 

[ellen]

A nice day trip from Naples to see the ruins of the baths at Baia (web site here: http://cir.campania.beniculturali.it/archeobaia?set_language=en) and/or the underwater park (http://www.parcoarcheologicosommersodibaia.it/parco.php) is only improved with a meal at Il Paolanto, on the road between the Fusaro train station and the park. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaura...lanto-Bacoli_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html We had one of my most memorable meals in Italy at this restaurant on a cold, rainy February afternoon.