Hi Laura
Torino is a favourite city of ours. I think we're over 10 visits now!
My highlights will differ to others so I'll start with the specifics you sought:
Favourite café: I don't know what you know of Torino, but in terms of historic cafes, Torino is pretty special. Our favourite of the historic cafes is Al Bicerin in Piazza della Consolata (NW part of the city). It's very low key in comparison to those on Piazza San Carlo, but has a lovely cosy charm. Back in the day, apparently this was one café that ladies would feel comfortable to go to, when normally such places were mostly for men. IIRC also run by ladies for many years.
Must eat here restaurant? I'm loathe to suggest anything, as tastes vary. I would have suggested Piazza dei Mestieri from when we first went there, but a recent visit was less exciting. This is an unusual social project, taking in kids who are 'on the fringe of society' and training them up in various skills including cooking, baking, chocolate making and brewing (with no doubt other elements). As part of this they have a 'pub' and upstairs within the main building, there is a restaurant. The location is a little hidden away, on a road between Corso Francia (west of Stazione Porta Susa) and Corso Regina Margherita:
- Address: Via Jacopo Durandi 13, Turin 10144
I want to support them, because what they are attempting is worthy / special, but our last visit and a meal in the city centre bar / restaurant both disappointed.
We do always go to Taverna dell'Oca between Stazione Porta Nuova and the Mole. It's not fancy, has a decent but not thrilling wine list, but the food has always impressed, they are friendly and that gives a lovely atmosphere.
- Address: Via Dei Mille 24, Turin 10123
For a deep and wonderfully fairly priced wine list and good traditional food (and on very good form last time we visited), try either Tre Galli or Tre Galline (the latter more informal). Here's the address for Tre Galli with the shared website
- Address: Via Sant'Agostino 25, Turin 10122
Finally, a place that has hit high highs and frustratingly also a few lows, and sometimes is booked out for a function or private event, Vitel Etonné (referring to vitello tonnato, a great local dish often served as a starter). It's not fancy and was more of an enoteca (wine bar / wine shop also serving tasty food), but now very much leads on the food, but with an interesting wine selection.
- Address: Via San Francesco da Paola 4, Torino, Turin 10123
There are however plenty of great restaurants, so do take a chance if you see somewhere that looks appetising.
Hiking trails: In the city itself, Parco Valentino is good for a leisurely stroll. Outside of the city, the Basilica di Superga might appeal as a place to stroll around, look inside and take in the views. It also has an unusual (and steep) rack railway to take you up & down from the village/suburb at the foot of the hill. An indelible memory is the time it started careering down the hill at speed, and the calm way the drivers assistant (or perhaps tutor), strolled over to show him how to apply the brake! A place that might appeal is the Museo della Montagna, over the river near Gran Madre (wedding scene in the Italian Job movie). It covers walking, mountaineering and life in the mountains, and on a clear day the viewing platform gives a view of the mountains (as well as the city).
Picnic spot: Parco Valentino an option, and the small royal park behind the Piazza Castello buildings might also be ideal. For buying picnic items, there are some wonderful food shops (Torino is exceptional in this respect), with via Lagrange having a decent selection, plus the old town streets around via dei Mercanti also very good. However keep your eyes peeled because there are some great places dotted across the town. The daily market is very good for food, based on Piazza della Repubblica to the north of the city. This is very much a place to rub shoulders with the locals. It can feel a little edgy, but I've never had any issues or seen any issues. The only place in the city I tend to raise my awareness, but Torino's most edgy probably equates to some cities' most safe/secure!