Help Needed Trip to the Caribbean

[Pauline]

When we lived in Santa Fe NM we went to Hawaii every winter and I miss that! We've been in the UK for 7 years now and have not had any winter getaways. We will try the Canaries and Madeira but I have been thinking about the Caribbean. We have never been there and I am asking for recommendations of places to go. We would go to one place for 2 - 3 weeks, I think. We would go in February next year, hopefully.

This is what we need: Nice beaches and good swimming (in the sea), places to walk (this doesn't have to be hiking trails, but could be a nice quiet route along the water), not a party-place.

In Hawaii we tried each island over the years, but mostly went to Kauai and stayed in the southern end (Poipu) in January or February. We rented a cottage usually for a month. We went swimming every day (we had a short drive to a good beach) and went walking every morning (along quiet streets to the Hyatt where we had coffee and bagel for breakfast). Other than that we would spend some time working (SlowTrav!), do some drives, read.

This is the beach we loved in Kauai. It was in front of the Sheraton and we rented different cottages in the area. The swimming here was excellent. The waves could be a bit rough, but once you got out the water was deep.

Beach in Poipu, Kauai 2003​

 

[Lisa in Ottawa]

I've never been but I have friends who rent an apartment in Grenada every year. They swim, relax, cook their own food etc. I think it's one of the least developed of the Caribbean Islands.

 

[Colo]

Wow how did I miss this post for so long...

Island #1 for your consideration…

If you are looking for some relaxing downtime with blue water, white sand, nature, that has been protected for the most part from the invasion of timeshares and major hotels this island may be the spot for you.

The island is 66% National Park, which includes the waters that surround most of the island, thus limiting the development.

The north coast offers some of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean with extremely white sand, and lush vegetation close providing lots of natural shade.

Once can walk off the beaches into crystal clear water for a snorkel and experience what lays below. The fans and coral provide homes to thousands of different sea life, and most days you will even bump into a turtle or two...

but if you are real lucky you may get to be part of a starfish party

If exploring the island is on the agenda of the day, the island has multiple hiking trails which are maintained by local volunteers and the national park service. There are guided hikes that usually have a topic, but most just head out. https://www.nps.gov/viis/planyourvisit/hiking-in-paradise.htm

Along these trails you are likely to encounter sugar mill plantations, old school houses, exotic plants, iguanas, and on the Reef Bay trail petroglyphs dating back to 500 AD. The entire island can be circumnavigated or if you get tired or a blister pops up from walking - hitch hiking is safe.

So… if quiet days relaxing and enjoying nature are your thing you may want to consider St John, USVI. Over the years it has gotten more popular, but still offers a magical experience.

I let you think on this island and I will be more than happy to answer questions about lodging, transportation (they drive on your side of the road), off island adventures, and things not to miss if you are interested

Hmmm.... should this be our target island?

 

[Pauline]

And I missed your reply!

I knew it was St Johns after the second sentence. The only problem is that I am trying to avoid travel to the US as my own personal protest on the travel ban, but I may have to cast that aside.

In my reading so far I came up with fly BA to Antigua. One week there (but I know nothing about it), fly to BVI and two weeks there.

Yes, I would like to know more.

Fly BA to Miami then on to USVI?
Can we go from USVI to BVI?
Another Italy travel friend loves the USVI, so I had been considering it.
They drive on the left???
We would stay in a vacation rental - cottage or apartment. Recommendations? Where?
Time of year. I was considering this December, after thanksgiving and return before Christmas. Or over Christmas but it must get crowded. Or January?
I don't want a place full of high rise hotels.

I don't like snorkelling (although those photos are fab). I want to swim. Are the beaches good for swimming? Water not too shallow, waves not too huge.

The hikes sound great but we also like a place where we can stroll. Walk on coast paths or lanes by the sea.

We've been to Hawaii lots (every island), Tahiti once for a month, Fiji once for a week, Rarotonga once for a couple of weeks. Florida several times. That is my tropical experience.

 

[Sojourner]

Hmm, well there are plenty of islands to choose from and I can second St. John as a good choice. If you want to protest the travel ban (which of course does not exist) and 'vote with your feet', then I would definitely consider the British Virgin Islands as you say you are. Something somewhat 'patriotic' in that choice given where you now live.

But if you chose the BVIs then I would have to say that going to the BVIs in my mind is about a sailing vacation. It is probably the best location for a sailing vacation there is. Have you considered a sailing charter?

If you insist on sleeping on land, then you would probably have to choose between Tortola island and Virgin Gorda island. Or if you can talk a few friends into joining you, there is always Necker Island, Richard Branson's little hideaway (I'm not sure if he still owns it though). http://www.virginlimitededition.com/en/necker-island/exclusive

It does seem a long way to go for a beach from the UK to me though. From the UK, I would suggest the Canaries or even better in my opinion, the Cabo Verde islands. I tend to prefer sun and sand vacation destinations that are still in the first or second stages of the Butler model. http://geographyfieldwork.com/ButlerModel.htm

http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/africa/travellers-guide-cape-verde-2120058.html

 

[Colo]

Well let me try to answer all your questions and shed some additional light

The island is St John – there is no “s” on the end. There is a town in Antigua that is called St Johns.

Travel Ban:

I can happily say up to this point the Judicial Branch of our Government seems to be doing due diligence to their job and their Constitutional responsibilities (IMHO – not looking for a political discussion) Hence, I would not penalize the U. S. Virgin Islands, but instead rejoice our system of Government is working.

Airfare:

Whether you are flying to the USVI or the BVI the cheapest entry point for both is usually St Thomas. (STT). It is a 20 Minute ferry ride form Red Hook in St Thomas to St John (No airport on St John) or a 45-minute ferry ride to Tortola in the BVI. Provide more details on that if you decide to hit either place.

As for flight a recommendation: I would look to fly into Miami, Atlanta, Charlotte, Philadelphia, New York, or DC (in that order) and then on to STT. The other option if you can get a direct flight to San Juan (SJU) then over to STT which is about a 20-minute flight or into Tortola (EIS) a 30-minute flight. If you take the San Juan option you may want to throw a couple days in for Old San Juan and the Rain Forest.

Transportation:

Yes, they do drive on the left in US style cars. Max speed limit on the island I think is 25. Renting a car is a must. Public transportation is minimal. You do not need a jeep unless you want to go to the extremely remote locations or depending on where you choose to stay. (Some villas can have challenging driveways.) The roads after it rains, because of the hills, can be tricky. Don’t worry about scratches on the car, but always take a close look at the tires.

Traveling back and forth from USVI to BVI is done by ferry, and day trips are possible. There are also many private excursions that will let you have a great day in the BVI either by Sail or Motor. A week in STJ and week in the BVI is not a bad plan either. I can honestly say our favorite vacations in this part of the world has been chartering a sailboat. Then you have your cake and eat too! Let me know if that would be an option.

Lodging:

The good news is there are ZERO high rise hotels on the island of St John!

In fact, there are only two real hotels. Caneel Bay, which is a high-end resort that was originally part of the Laurence Rockefeller Rock Resorts. It is on a beautiful piece of property and wonderful beaches. Eco Friendly and very expensive. The other is the Westin. Another pricey choice, nice facility on the water, albeit it is a manmade beach and the bay it is on is where a lot locals moor their sailboats. Not a great swimming hole.

There are some nice small inns and condos scattered about and that may be an option to consider. If that options interest you we have stayed at a few and I can give you a few recommendations. But in reality, the best place to stay in STJ in a villa. There are modest one bedrooms to luxury beyond the imagination. Since the island is 67% National Park, there are two major areas where visitors say. Cruz Bay, where the ferry comes in, and Coral Bay, which is much more isolated and a has a different vibe.

We have been traveling to STJ since the 70s and have stayed on both sides, but we tend to prefer the Cruz Bay side of the island. There is also the East End which is very remote and where a lot of locals and ex-pats live. Then on top the mountain between Cruz and Coral bay there are other places that provide amazing views and access to both.

One important fact to note is that since the island is mostly a national park there are very few places “on” the water. The higher you go up the better the views and the breezes.

Timing:

The time you are shooting for is excellent time. The week after Thanksgiving there are usually great airfares, and villa availability is good. Christmas time is crazy (cost and availability) so if you are out there by 15th or so you are good. Also, the island is in the lull before the storm of “season” which is Christmas to Easter roughly. My personal favorite month is May or October-November. September is the sleepiest month and there are a lot of things closed as many locals take holiday stateside. Also September is the most likely month for hurricanes. However, in September the beaches are empty, but the humidity is high.

Beaches:

The beaches are amazing and most you can just walk off and swim or snorkel. My wife has swum the Beach to Beach Swim in May a couple times. The race starts in Maho and ends 3.5 miles later. The best swimming beaches are on the North Shore. Very little to any wave action on the North Shore, except a couple times of year. The window of opportunity for the waves is the November to March timeframe, but if memory serves me well February and March are the most likely months. Here again they will only last a day or two as a front goes by.

Hikes & Strolls

The hiking trails are at all skill levels – some are just nice strolls from one beach to another, and some can be challenging. The roads on island are not highways by any stretch of the imagination and many folks walk the roads. Some of our favorite beaches you have to walk to get there, and the paths/trails are wide and enjoyable, so I think there are many options for leg stretching.

We have stayed in the VIs (USVI or BVI) on St Thomas, St John, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda. As I said we have also sailed the islands multiple times seeing most of them. I can say that each island is unique and all have their good and bad, but I think St John meets what you described the best.

So, after that brief highlight of STJ… other islands you may want to throw into the consideration process:

Anguilla in the BWI and Guadeloupe in the FWI.

Stayed on both and each offers some unique opportunities to find paradise. Anguilla, you would probably be best looking to fly from Paris to St Maarten and then ferry to Anguilla.

I am pretty sure there are direct flights from Paris to Guadeloupe.

Just saw Sojourner post and the BVI - Tortola or Virgin Gorda best two choices for sure. Now if you are a party animal I would say Joost Van Dyke!

 

[Colo]

...Or if you can talk a few friends into joining you, there is always Necker Island, Richard Branson's little hideaway (I'm not sure if he still owns it though). http://www.virginlimitededition.com/en/necker-island/exclusive

Yep Sir Richard still does.
The Obamas went for their vacation after turning over the keys to the White House earlier this year.

 

[Sojourner]

I remember my first visit to Maho Bay and staying in a 'tabin' Colo. On first arrival, I took in the bed with sheets and pillows left for you to make up your own bed and thought doing it that way was a good idea since I first had to remove the dead scorpion lying on the mattress.

The 'kitchen' consisted of a plank bench with a 2 burner Coleman stove on it and a picnic ice cooler alongside for which you could buy ice at the main building. Showers and toilets were communal with toilets being composting toilets. The wooden walkways were used to get everywhere and the claim was that everything could be removed leaving no impact on the surroundings. The first 'eco-friendly' accommodation I had ever come across. I think it was there 2nd year of operation and so that would be back in 1977. Sadly, I understand it is no longer there although there is apparently a more upscale version elsewhere on the island now. http://postcardsfrommahobay.com/about-2/maho-bay-camps/

https://www.google.ca/search?q=maho...qurrvUAhVr3IMKHVXoBMQQsAQIbQ&biw=1366&bih=662

I have spent time sailing in the BVI several times and can't think of anywhere better for a sailing vacation. I have sailed in a lot of places so I do consider that saying something. The problem of course with combining both the BVI and the USVI in one sailing vacation is the necessity to clear Immigration and Customs when moving from one to the other.

I have actually been a guest for a day on Necker Island. We were anchored off Bitter End Yacht Club in and I met a young woman at the club with whom I got friendly and who was staying with friends on Necker. She invited me to sail over and visit the next day which we did. Enough said.

As for partying, I have great memories of a New Year's Eve party at Foxy's on JVD which I am guessing is what you are referring to. Of course I was in my 30s then, nowadays I don't know if I could handle it. There were so many boats anchored in the bay, you could almost literally walk ashore from deck to deck. Foxy's is where I first discovered what a 'body shot' was. I also recall some good evenings in some of the Pusser's restaurants. Do they still put full bottles of Pusser's Rum on the tables?

On St. John, I recall there being a big Xmas Party in town put on by the Fire and Police departments. Their facilities consisted of a double garage with one side being the Fire Department and the other being the Police Department. For the party, the Fire Department provided free food for all and the Police Department provided free drinks of every kind of beer, wine and spirits you could think of. My guess was that it was what they had confiscated from people over the course of the year.

Good memories. It has been some years now since I have been in the Caribbean.

 

[Colo]

Yep Sojourner good memories indeed! Our first sailing trip was 1988 in the BVI and we fell in love immediately on this beautiful boat below -64 feet of pure fun!

Rising Sun - our first Charter 1988

I was in the USCG in Puerto Rico in the late 70s and flew as a crewmember in helos around the islands daily. We would be counting whales, doing drug patrols, SAR, or medivacs. The beauty never failed how beautiful the islands.

Little Dix Bay Virgin Gorda - 1978

My wife and I did a week in Virgin Gorda in 1979 back when you go to the Baths and be the only onethere - No steps, no paths, and, no beach bars... just you and your sweetie.

A day at the Baths on VG by ourselves 1979

Our trips back to islands lead to the charter in 88 and trips to Tortola in early 90s. Somewhere in that time frame Tortola Cab Drivers started pushing for a cruise ship dock in Roadtown. When the dock was completed the change was immediate, and Tortola always was different to us, and we started heading to St John as our go to quiet place.

Use to be an old dude ran an honor bar at Smugglers and the car in the building was the one they drove the Queen around in when she visited Tortola. 1992

Albeit, St John is now suffering a little from growing pains, but I truly hope it will remain our quiet getaway.

BTW - Maho Bay Campgrounds are now gone. The 22 acres that they sat on was one of the last non park areas. A singe buyer bought it and word is they plan not to develop it. Maho still my favorite beach.

 

[Pauline]

Great photos! I would like to avoid cruise ship people. And we don't sail. I tried it once and I did not like it.

Sun, heat, swimming in the ocean, nice walks, no golf, no high rise buildings, no crowds. That's what I am looking for.

We have not been to the Canaries yet. Every time I start doing research for going, I get put off. But we will get there eventually.

 

[Sojourner]

Ah, that's too bad Pauline. Sailing is great in so many ways. Can I guess, you didn't like it when the boat leaned over? That seems to be the most common dislike other than seasickness. I have a friend who sails but is not allowed to let his boat heel over more than about 10 degrees before his wife starts complaining. That's like owning a thoroughbred horse and not letting it gallop.

Colo, a 64 foot cutter rigged ketch for your first sailing charter? Umm, may I ask, who sailed it? I have never actually skippered a ketch. The largest boat I have skippered was a 57 foot sloop.

I got my USCG 'Six Pack' certification out of Miami sailing in the Bahamas when I was 32. I also had Canadian skipper and blue water certification but I got the six pack because it allows for paying passengers. I got it because I had a friend who owned a sailing school in Toronto, Canada and for 3 successive winters I spent 2 weeks skippering 'liveaboard cruising courses' of one week each for him in the BVIs. He didn't pay me, but all my expenses were paid, so really it was 2 weeks of free vacation for me. Only 4 students on the boat per week was no problem, just people to enjoy sailing with.

I know Maho Bay Camp has shut down but I understand that the same guy started up Concordia Eco-Resort on the island and it has now been sold but will re-open possibly next year.
http://www.stjohntradewindsnews.com/concordia-eco-resort-slated-re-development/

 

[Colo]

I hate to hijack the thread, but Sojourner you bring up a really good point for those considering a sail charter. These days more and more folks are opting for a catamaran when sailing in the BVI. The space and stability being the main reason given. We have done both and if comfort is what you are looking for - a CAT is the way to go. However, I do like to heel

The charter on the Rising Sun (the boat pictured) without a doubt it was crewed. We had two VERY experienced sailors in our group of 3 couples, but a boat like the owner want to know who is sailing it. So there was a Capt, Mate, and Chef. All three of them had a six pack qual or higher. We always get a Capt and Crew. Vacation to me is not waking up at 0200 to make sure the mooring line has broken or you are dragging anchor. The food on a charter is as good or better than anywhere in the Caribbean. So we push the easy button and the crew will let you: sail all you want + you are just not responsible = VACATION

I saved the link to the shipyard page that built the Rising Sun. http://www.dixdesign.com/dix64.htm
The boat is consider a staysail schooner since both mask are the same height. It also left tons of deck space for relaxation. Really neat design and it would fly like the wind. OH MY did it cut through the water.

Yep - Maho going away and Concordia being redone it is some of the change I was referring to above. The plans I saw, Concordia was going to be 4 Seasons Eco Living but we shall see. Have not had a chance to read your link, but will tonight, but last fall there were a lot articles - have not heard anything lately.

 

[Pauline]

Sailing is great in so many ways. Can I guess, you didn't like it when the boat leaned over?

I remember feeling seasick and wishing I could be walking along the coast instead.

 

[Colo]

Understand, I would still recommend that you take a look doing a day trip. The VI (US or British) the waters are very calm with great winds.

However, it is like me and Scallops - had them once and got sick every 15 minutes for 18 hours. My mother is allergic, but I have never been diagnosed but I will be damn if I ever eat another one.

Sometimes once is enough

 

[Sojourner]

Yes, nothing is for everyone and thank goodness for that. If we were all the same, life would be pretty boring.

Suggesting a day sail for Pauline brought up another BVI memory. I remember meeting a young couple who were living on their boat and taking tourists out on day trips as a way to earn their living. I can't remember the name of the boat which was shown in a nice little logo on the front of the t-shirts they sold. But on the back of the t-shirts I remember very well the outline drawing of a discreetly posed nude with her back to you and the caption, 'Put a little colour in your cheeks, sail naked.'

My bad Colo, I missed the equal mast height. I don't eat any fish except fish and chips and yet I love all shellfish including scallops. Conversely, my wife likes fish of all kinds but does not like most shellfish.

I sailed once in a cruising catamaran and hated it. Boring. Sorry for the hi-jack Pauline, it's just that sailing is such a fun topic to trade stories about and I can't resist.

 

[Pauline]

I like threads that go off topic. They can lead to interesting places!

 

[Pauline]

@Colo put together some information for me about St John in the USVI. It looks like a good fit for us. I will get to work now figuring out flights, dates. My current idea is to fly from the UK into either Miami or Antigua and travel from there. Maybe two weeks on St John and one week in the BVI (thinking Virgin Gorda).

 

[Colo]

Pauline that is great!

As you expand your search for lodging and have any questions let me know. There are a lot of VRBO offerings to investigate. I think VRBO changed some stuff that impacted owners last year, so somo of the villa/cottage owners began their own online resource. Check it out: St John Rentals

I thing Virgin Gorda is an excellent second island. There is one place that should be on everyone's bucket list on VG. It is called the Baths. Over the years, like many other wonders, it has become too popular, but oh my the beauty is amazing.

Are you ready for a swim?

 

[Lisa in Ottawa]

Love to hear about your experience. I almost booked St. John a few years ago and can't remember what happened. I think maybeI didn't want to go to aUS island, or too expensive or decided to go to Europe or Mexico instead...

 

[Colo]

I feel I must add a few points of clarification regarding the U.S. Virgin Islands while carefully walking a political balance beam. There have been a few posts that made inference that they would not visit the USVI, because of the US in their name. The USVI is a U.S. territory with commonwealth status and they have an insular relationship with the United States of America. USVI citizens do not vote in our elections and none of their tax dollars feed America’s coffers. However, many of their youth have served in many of our forays and blunders abroad on a volunteer basis.

An individual that wants to boycott or protest the actions of USA, the current President, or what the nation has become today by not vacationing in the USVI is misguided and only hurts individuals on three small Caribbean Islands that were sold by Denmark to United States in 1916. All three of the islands have much smaller footprint of US business than our neighbors to the north or south. No Hiltons, no 7/11s, or Walmarts in USVI. Go to the islands and enjoy the blue water and white sand rejoicing that TV reception sucks!