Help Needed Where to go for 2 nights south of Milan? Parma?

[Pauline]

I have our May trip to Italy booked as follows:

• Fly into Milan Linate
• Aosta - 2 nights (plan to drive into the mountains at Cogne to see Ibex)
• Levanto, Liguria - 10 nights
• Piedmont - 7 nights
• Fly home

We leave in 2 1/2 weeks. I am now having doubts about the 2 nights in Aosta. There is still snow on the ground and the weather is forecast to be 50F high, 32F low, rain. It is a 2hr15min drive from the airport to Aosta, then another 40min to Cogne. Not too bad. Then 3hr30min from Aosta to Levanto. I talked to the tourist office in Cogne and they think there is a good chance we will see Ibex down in the valley in early May. But, if we don't, this is a lot of holiday effort to see them.

So, instead I am thinking of 2 nights in Parma. The drive from the airport to Parma is 1hr25min, then from Parma to Levanto in under 2 hours. We've never been to Parma (or anywhere in Emilia Romagna except for Ravenna. Would we enjoy Parma? We are not foodies (no Parma ham for me) or wine enthusiasts but we enjoy historic town centers, frescoes, interesting towns.

I had thought about San Remo but it is really out of the way and the weather forecast isn't great (low 60s, cloudy).

Another option would be Genoa. We've been there once - 30 years ago!

Ideas?

 

[joe]

I'd certainly go to Genoa on some part of your trip - but since you will be in Liguria for ten days, this city could be a day trip from Levanto. You could also drive through Genoa on your way to Piemonte.
If it was me, I'd stay two nights in the "Colli Piacenti" area to the south of Piacenza - we fell in love with this area on a first-time trip two years ago, especially the Trebbia and Nure valleys. Some lovely towns and great food, this area is basically the northern section of the Ligurian Apenines. But not relevant if you prefer a city for those days, unless Piacenza might interest you (never been there).

 

[susan]

Hi Pauline,

I have stayed in Parma twice (second time as a 1st stop after landing in Milan on my way to Liguria) and then went back again for a day trip visit on another occasion. I have loved each of my visits there. I think it is a great idea as a place for your first couple of nights on the way to Liguria. I don't eat pork but I thought the food was amazing there and I am not a huge foodie either. Both the Duomo and the Battistero in Parma alone are worth a visit.

Here's a post I did on the Baptistery and here's a post I did about my day trip to Parma with more photos of the town and a description of my delicious lunch.

I have also done a day trip to Genova from Santa Margherita Ligure but since you have been there before, I would recommend Parma.

 

[Kathrynj]

I spent three nights in Parma last summer - unfortunately during Europe’s ‘Lucifer’ heat wave! But, despite the heat, I really enjoyed it. It’s small enough to not be overrun with tourists and, obviously, the food is amazing.
I did a tour that included going into the countryside and visiting producers of Parmesan, prosciutto, wine and balsâmico. The Parmesan and balsâmico visits alone made it worthwhile - even if you aren’t a foodie.

 

[jan]

I think Parma has a lot to offer besides the food. It's been more than 10 years since our 5 night stay but probably will day trip there from our week in Reggio Emilia.

(When will you be in Piemonte? We'll be in Torino the first week of May.)

One more place you may want to look at is Mantova. We stayed in 2016 for 2 or 3 nights and I really enjoyed it--amazing history, museums and architecture.

 

[Pauline]

When will you be in Piemonte? We'll be in Torino the first week of May.

Later in the month. Too bad! Would be nice to meet up!

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Pauline
Logistically Genoa/Genova or Parma would seem the simplest with Reggio a lower key option. However would you drive or take the train? If the latter, then yes I'd limit to those options for simplicity. If you'll be driving, I've be thinking something to take proper advantage of it, to get a little off the beaten track and have more pleasurable driving. e.g. there are a couple of regional parks either side of the A7 north of Genova or another one north of La Spezia.

What about Carrara or Bagni di Lucca?

Perhaps with just two days, it's a chance to take a punt on a village in a reasonably scenic but untouristy location.

Regards
Ian

 

[DDTraveler]

I spent three nights in Parma last summer - unfortunately during Europe’s ‘Lucifer’ heat wave! But, despite the heat, I really enjoyed it. It’s small enough to not be overrun with tourists and, obviously, the food is amazing.
I did a tour that included going into the countryside and visiting producers of Parmesan, prosciutto, wine and balsâmico. The Parmesan and balsâmico visits alone made it worthwhile - even if you aren’t a foodie.

Kathrynj -- I would love to know the tour you took. We will be in Bologna for four days in the Fall, and will likely go to Parma for a day. Thanks!

 

[Pauline]

However would you drive or take the train?

We will be driving. I noticed those parks on the map but don’t know anything about them. Bagni Di Lucca is an idea. I’ve always wanted to go there.

I’m watching the snowmelt in Aosta and still debating my original plan.

 

[joe]

Expanding on what I wrote above : Travo, Bobbio, Bettola, Borgo Val di Taro, and Bedonia are all lovely towns that we passed through in our stay in that area - off the beaten track, and a car is a must. We'd go back there for sure if we're anywhere close in the future.

 

[SusanSeattle]

Kathrynj -- I would love to know the tour you took. We will be in Bologna for four days in the Fall, and will likely go to Parma for a day. Thanks!

I'm visiting next spring and would be interested as well

 

[Kathrynj]

The food tour I took in Parma was Food Tours with Laura. It’s a private tour and she picks you up at your hotel/apartment. I actually didn’t realize it was private until she picked me up but as it was only me, I got great attention!
Full disclosure - she isn’t the most chatty person in the world, but knows her stuff and the venues you visit are very impressive. Or maybe she was in a quiet mood the day I was with her..
Of course you have the option of purchasing products from the places you visit. The cheese is long gone, but I will have great Balsâmico for a long time.

 

[Jabez]

I like Parma and would consider Modena. stayed at a great B&B near there.

 

[Sandrac]

Another vote for Parma, beautiful small city. And to get you in the mood, you could read John Grisham's Playing for Pizza! It's probably 20 years old by now and I think we discussed on SlowTrav. Not a typical Grisham thriller but instead, a little story about an NFL QB who is busted down to playing in Italy's football (not calcio but North American-style football league. Actually, it's mostly about food.

 

[Pauline]

I decided on Parma, then looked at hotels and the city is over 90% booked for our dates. There is an international food fair going on!
http://www.emiliaromagnaturismo.com/en/events/parma/parma/cibus-off

The weather is looking better now for Aosta and Cogne, so maybe I will stick with our original plan. Will have a look first at the other suggestions in this thread.

Parma is on my list for a future trip.

 

[Fedina]

The Aosta area is gorgeous. Some years ago, after visiting the mountains and St. Bernard pass, we drove through. Definitely want to go back. Hope you enjoy it.

Parma area is always high on my list and has lots to explore. My family is from the hills nearby and the Po area. Food, festas, farms, cheese production and lots of castles between there and Piacenza. Fontenellato castle is great. It has a moat and used to have a wonderful monthly antique market. It's about a half hour from Parma. Cremona is a lovely little town too. Love the Stradivarius museum there.

 

[Pauline]

We made our decision. We are skipping Aosta and spending 2 more nights in Liguria.

We fly into Milan, arrive in the afternoon and will drive to Santa Margherita Ligure. We've been to Camogli before, on a day trip, and 30 years ago visited Portofino. We will spend 2 nights in SML in a hotel and on our day there we will do the SML - San Fruttuoso hike! I have always wanted to do this and planned to do it from Levanto, but this will be easier. We will take the ferry back to SML. The details for the hike are in the Sunflower Guide for Liguria. The hike is 5.6 miles, under 3 hours, 350m ascent/descent. Perfect! The weather is forcast to be low 70s and sunny.

From there it is only an hour south to Levanto where we will be for 10 nights.