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A Week in Tuscany, near Montepulciano

Pauline

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We took advantage of a discount being offered because of a cancellation at Sant'Antonio, an estate near Montepulciano, and will be there for a week mid-June. We have spent many weeks in this area, but almost 10 years ago! I would love to get some suggestions of things to do, restaurants, etc.

Before our week there we are spending two nights in Orvieto. Is this a good choice? We have only been there once, on a day trip.
 
Oh yay, glad someone could take advantage of the cancellation. And a few nights in Orvieto sounds good to me. While we were staying at Sant'Antonio a few weeks ago, we did day trips to Montalcino and Pienza, used your notes (thanks!) for our visit to Sant'Antimo, and ventured as far as Siena one day too.
 
I want to see Sant'Antimo again. Also Monte Oliveto with those Sodoma frescoes. We are planning a day trip to Siena. I will look up my old notes on SlowTrav to remind myself.

Is the restaurant Latte di Luna in Pienza still good? Also, everyone talks about that La Porta (is that right)? Where is it? I think we were there once but only for coffee.
 
Monte Oliveto remains on my to do list for the next visit; Roz& Mike went and told us about it. We did not have a meal in Pienza, but La Porta in Montichiello was wonderful. We went for lunch before our tour of the La Foce gardens.
 
We toured the La Foce gardens on one of our visits. It was lovely. Montichiello was the town name I could not remember - the one with the famous tree lined winding road, I think. Thanks!
 
Va Bene….you did it!!!! Finally!!!! What a great time time you will have and I know that Nico will be so pleased to welcome you. What unit will you have?
 
I want to see Sant'Antimo again. Also Monte Oliveto with those Sodoma frescoes. We are planning a day trip to Siena. I will look up my old notes on SlowTrav to remind myself.

Is the restaurant Latte di Luna in Pienza still good? Also, everyone talks about that La Porta (is that right)? Where is it? I think we were there once but only for coffee.
La Porta is in Monticchiello which is a lovely drive from Sant' Antonio. Nico will make reservations for you. He and the owner have been friends for years. It is the first place we ever ate when at SA. It normally is not a place you would go just for coffee. It is a great place for lunch in the summer as the outdoor searing has spectacular views.
 
I'll recommend il Rossellino in the center of Pienza. A mom and pop place seating maybe twenty. Closed Thursdays.
 
Pauline, we are just back from a week in Montepulciano, although we did not stay at Nico's. We had an apartment in the town. I have a lot of photos of what we did in these Flickr albums.

By far the best meal we had was at La Grotta, which is just outside town near San Biagio (the church is unfortunately closed now for restoration). It seems like the kind of place that would be able to provide a creative vegetarian selection, which I think could be kind of hard to get in a lot of restaurants in Tuscany, where there is a heavy emphasis on meats.

Do you eat fish? There is a very nice little fish restaurant on the main street of Montepulciano called La Pentolaccia. It is tiny though, so if you want to go there, get there very early, or make a reservation. The fish we had there was absolutely fresh and delicious.

If you like the Sodoma frescoes, there are also some wonderful ones at Sant'Anna in Camprena. We have been trying to get in to see them for years, and even though we check the supposed hours, it has always been closed when we were there. This time we finally made it. You can see some photos in one of those albums. The views from Sant'Anna are also spectacular.

I also recommend an excursion around Monte Amiata. You and Steve would probably like to hike there. We didn't hike, but we really enjoyed our day driving around the area. The Daniel Spoerri sculpture garden outside Seggiano was magical.

The best gelato in Montepulciano is just outside the walls at Caffe Stella. Marcia and David will confirm that, I think! Also, Kopakabana gelateria in Siena was terrific (despite the kind of silly name). As you can see in my photo album, we had spectacular weather in Siena and the views from the top of the OPA museum were wonderful.
 
Pauline, we are just back from a week in Montepulciano, although we did not stay at Nico's. We had an apartment in the town. I have a lot of photos of what we did in these Flickr albums.

By far the best meal we had was at La Grotta, which is just outside town near San Biagio (the church is unfortunately closed now for restoration). It seems like the kind of place that would be able to provide a creative vegetarian selection, which I think could be kind of hard to get in a lot of restaurants in Tuscany, where there is a heavy emphasis on meats.

Do you eat fish? There is a very nice little fish restaurant on the main street of Montepulciano called La Pentolaccia. It is tiny though, so if you want to go there, get there very early, or make a reservation. The fish we had there was absolutely fresh and delicious.

If you like the Sodoma frescoes, there are also some wonderful ones at Sant'Anna in Camprena. We have been trying to get in to see them for years, and even though we check the supposed hours, it has always been closed when we were there. This time we finally made it. You can see some photos in one of those albums. The views from Sant'Anna are also spectacular.

I also recommend an excursion around Monte Amiata. You and Steve would probably like to hike there. We didn't hike, but we really enjoyed our day driving around the area. The Daniel Spoerri sculpture garden outside Seggiano was magical.

The best gelato in Montepulciano is just outside the walls at Caffe Stella. Marcia and David will confirm that, I think! Also, Kopakabana gelateria in Siena was terrific (despite the kind of silly name). As you can see in my photo album, we had spectacular weather in Siena and the views from the top of the OPA museum were wonderful.
I know many people really like La Grotta and swear by it. We are not in that chorus. We have eaten there twice over the years. Once we were very unhappy and the other time we did have a nice dinner but not one we rave about or enough to get us to return. It is the most elegant in the area but we truly prefer smaller, more intimate places such as Le Logge del Vignola. If you go there, make your reservation early and ask for the window table. Thinking about it, maybe you should check the menu to see about vegetarian. Although I think if you let them know ahead of time, they would create something.
 
Jane, it probably depends a lot on what you are looking for. La Grotta isn't the snooty kind of elegant; my description of it was rustic elegance, and it was a very welcoming place on a cool, rainy day for lunch by the fire. But they also have a beautiful garden, and if you have nice weather, it would be very pleasant outside.

We also ate at Le Logge del Vignola, and I liked it a lot too. You really couldn't go wrong at either one, and Le Logge did offer some non-meat dishes for primi or antipasto. I had a risotto with truffles there that was wonderful.

Parking is a lot easier at La Grotta since they are outside town. Parking in Montepulciano can be difficult.

By the way, I wrote above that we were back from a week in Montepulciano. We were actually there two weeks and never ran out of things to do.
 
Do you eat fish? There is a very nice little fish restaurant on the main street of Montepulciano called La Pentolaccia.

If you like the Sodoma frescoes, there are also some wonderful ones at Sant'Anna in Camprena.

I also recommend an excursion around Monte Amiata. You and Steve would probably like to hike there. We didn't hike, but we really enjoyed our day driving around the area. The Daniel Spoerri sculpture garden outside Seggiano was magical.

The best gelato in Montepulciano is just outside the walls at Caffe Stella.
Thanks Roz! I don't eat fish, but Steve does. Thanks for the good suggestions.

I think we managed to see those frescoes years ago. We spent 3 weeks in a house near Castelmuzio, and we went to Sant'Anna several times, finally finding it open once. I will look back at my old photos - that is how I remember what we did!

We have driven around Monte Amiata, and we thought we might hike, but we didn't. We always had problems hiking in Italy and finally gave up trying. We would have our maps, start out, and always run into a blocked path, barking dog or something. Maybe it is better now. But on our recent trip to Sicily we had the same thing happen - 10 minutes into the hike from Scicli, a barrier across the path and a sign saying the area was closed.

I loved the towns around Monte Amiata. There is going to be so much to do - I am looking forward to it. We will spend a day in Siena. I want to see the frescoes in that building beside the church - can't remember the name. And Il Campo - one of my favorite places.
 
Pauline, I just remembered another magical place we visited on a previous trip to Tuscany. It's a garden / park just outside San Giovanni d'Asso, about 40 min from Montepulciano: Il Bosco della Ragnaia. An American artist, Sheppard Craige, created it, originally with the help of a group of local boys. He is apparently still adding on to it. It's a little voyage of discovery to walk through the park -- you are always coming upon some new construction, signage, etc. that makes you stop and think, and all very harmonious with the landscape. It's like no place I've ever been.

Disclaimer: we were there in March, well off-season, and were the only people in the park, so it was like our own little secret garden. I imagine it wouldn't be the same experience if it was full of other visitors, although it does spread over several acres, so is unlikely to be terribly crowded.
 

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