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Argentario, Italy

Sharon J

100+ Posts
Has anyone visited this town? (Argentario) I'm looking for new adventures during our June trip to Montepulciano. Someone mentioned this town on their blog, and it looks lovely. I would also be interested is a place for lunch. Certainly looks beautiful!
 
Do you mean Monte Argentario, the almost island in southern Tuscany? This was one of the first places we ever stayed in Italy and we have returned a couple of times. There are two main towns - Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole. Both are very nice. The area is beautiful. It can get busy with traffic. Lots of lovely restaurants along the seaside in both places.
 
Ditto what Pauline says. We visited Port S. Stefano several years ago. I honestly wouldn't make the trip from Montepulciano (BTW, we'll be there in June), particularly if you haven't visited all the nearby Val d'Orcia towns. Have you been to Bagno Vignoni, Montichiello, Rocca d'Orcia, S. Quirico, etc? Many folks pass some of the smaller towns right by. There's plenty in the Val d'Orcia and even Val di Chiana or the Maremma that are easier to get to and I'd put higher on my list. I'm not suggesting you won't have a good time in the Monte Argentario area, but unless you're desperate for the sea I'd stay inland.
 
Do you mean Monte Argentario, the almost island in southern Tuscany? This was one of the first places we ever stayed in Italy and we have returned a couple of times. There are two main towns - Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole. Both are very nice. The area is beautiful. It can get busy with traffic. Lots of lovely restaurants along the seaside in both places.
Thank you Pauline, yes, it is Monte Argentario. I've looked at the pictures, and thought it looked interesting. As you know, we're looking for something that we haven't seen yet, and thought this might be interesting. I think we will ask Nico, what his thoughts are for us.
 
Ditto what Pauline says. We visited Port S. Stefano several years ago. I honestly wouldn't make the trip from Montepulciano (BTW, we'll be there in June), particularly if you haven't visited all the nearby Val d'Orcia towns. Have you been to Bagno Vignoni, Montichiello, Rocca d'Orcia, S. Quirico, etc? Many folks pass some of the smaller towns right by. There's plenty in the Val d'Orcia and even Val di Chiana or the Maremma that are easier to get to and I'd put higher on my list. I'm not suggesting you won't have a good time in the Monte Argentario area, but unless you're desperate for the sea I'd stay inland.
Thank you Matt. This will be our 7th stay in Tuscany in or near Montepulciano and area. We have visited all the areas you mentioned, and have even ventured into Umbria a great deal. Also, have stayed in the Piemonte, Lake Como and Positano, as well as spending a great deal of time in Venice. Our favorite towns are Orvieto in one direction and Lucca in the other. We love returning to all of our favorites, but usually try and take one day to venture away from our home base. We are still considering the Piano Grande.

By the way, where are you staying? We'll be at Sant'Antonio, Montepulciano.
 
Hi Sharon - Looks like you've got it pretty well covered. We also enjoyed Massa Maritimma (sp?) which might be more or less on the way for you. Barb and I are spending three nights in Civita Castellana in northern Lazio this year. We're pretty much winging it. Know anything about it?
 
Hi Matt, We have hiked into Civita Bagno Reggio several times. It is quite an adventure. There is a parking place for cars that shuttles people to the bridge, but you can actually drive as far as the bridge, and there is parking underneath. It is a place you will never forget.
 
Sharon....we seem to like similar places and have visited or stayed in your areas...last year we did a three night stay on mount Argentario in Porto Ercole in the Spanish fort....an incredible experience for sure and had one of our finest meals in Porto Ecole....unfortunately I would have to check my notes for its name. Do not cross off the Piano Grande...we have been twice and cannot eait to return again one day...June is a perfect time for the wild flowers in bloom...or if you venture further south...not a day flip for sure.....visiting the Christo Redentore in Mareate ( check spelling) was another memory .....we are now settled in lucca for 10 weeks and live returning here
 
Sharon....we seem to like similar places and have visited or stayed in your areas...last year we did a three night stay on mount Argentario in Porto Ercole in the Spanish fort....an incredible experience for sure and had one of our finest meals in Porto Ecole....unfortunately I would have to check my notes for its name. Do not cross off the Piano Grande...we have been twice and cannot eait to return again one day...June is a perfect time for the wild flowers in bloom...or if you venture further south...not a day flip for sure.....visiting the Christo Redentore in Mareate ( check spelling) was another memory .....we are now settled in lucca for 10 weeks and live returning here
Thank you DedeC. Yes,, Piano Grande keeps popping into my head. However, even though it's a long drive, we might just drive down to Gaeta. I lived there in the late 60's, and have always wanted to go back, for some walk around time. We were with the Navy, and very poor. Italy was so grim then, I actually see it in black and white in my mind. One time, we had friends with us in Montepulciano, and they wanted to see Venice in the worst way, so we got up early and drove over and returned home around midnight. It was a fun day, showing them around one of our favorite cities. I think we get this long driving thing from living in Texas for over 30 years.
 
Another thought I had...if you are here when infiorata happens....60 days after Easter....go to Spello......you are in for an amazing day.
 
Do read about inforiata.....the town people work a year designing and then creating floral carpets throughout the town......they are magical and not touched till the bishops walks down them after mass at about 11 as I remember.....we did a guided tour that day with Anne Robichaud......started early with full explanation and history lesson....and ended with pranzo and wine tasting in the town.....I still have floral petals I scooped up and saved 6 years ago.....they are only now starting to fade.
 
Barb and I are spending three nights in Civita Castellana in northern Lazio this year. We're pretty much winging it.

We spent a night there on a recent trip and visited with an American expat who lives there (do you know Allison?). I liked the town. We were following the Roman Road, Via Flaminia. There are bits of it near CC. Here is one part I wrote about - Day Trips - Rignano Flaminia. There are more bits nearby in Umbria. Read more here.

Allison took us to a nearby town where a road goes along an old Etruscan pathway and there are bits of other Roman roads. I can't remember the name of the town, but let me know if you are interested and I will find out.

You are not far from Pitigliano and the main Etruscan Pathways, if you haven't been there already.
 
One time, we had friends with us in Montepulciano, and they wanted to see Venice in the worst way, so we got up early and drove over and returned home around midnight. It was a fun day, showing them around one of our favorite cities.

Wow!! I admire people who can do such long drives (and get up early). I find driving in Europe, especially in the UK, to be more tiring than those easy, long drives in the US (we lived in New Mexico).
 
We spent a night there on a recent trip and visited with an American expat who lives there (do you know Allison?). I liked the town. We were following the Roman Road, Via Flaminia. There are bits of it near CC. Here is one part I wrote about - Day Trips - Rignano Flaminia. There are more bits nearby in Umbria. Read more here.

Allison took us to a nearby town where a road goes along an old Etruscan pathway and there are bits of other Roman roads. I can't remember the name of the town, but let me know if you are interested and I will find out.

You are not far from Pitigliano and the main Etruscan Pathways, if you haven't been there already.
Great Information Pauline. Thanks for reposting.
 
If you decide to go to Monte Argentario, I would recommend visiting the following towns, in this order, depending on how much time you have:

  • Porto Santo Stefano (see the old Spanish fortress)
  • Porto Ercole
  • Orbetello
  • Go to the top of Monte Argentario to the Monastery. If not for the monastery, at least for the views.

Towns nearby to Monte Argentario that can be added to the day and that are definitely worth the visit:

  • Capalbio – Not the beach area but the inland old town.
  • Talamone – 13th century town and fortress overlooking the sea and protected marine park.

Other coastal options to consider instead of Monte Argentario:

  • Castiglione della Pescaia – Sleepy fishing village. Old town is up on the hill and the new town on the sea. You should see both. Also an old castle and city walls.

  • Viareggio – It has a beautiful 3km long walk along the sea lined with Art Nouveau buildings.

  • Populonia – Etruscan ruins and an extremely impressive castle overlooking the sea.

  • Livorno – While this is a major cruise terminal, it does have its pros. It has a beautiful promenade. An old fortress. And a Venice like neighborhood.
 
I second Tony's suggestions for Orbetello and Talamone...Orbetello is a completely unique town set on one of the causeways leading to the Argentario. It is completely surrounded by water and has a very funky feel. There is an excellent Etruscan museum in town and some excellent fish restaurants.

Talamone is a small village with a big harbor, a nice centro storico and is the southern gateway to the National Park of the Maremma with good hiking and nice beaches.
 

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