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Mac1947

10+ Posts
Italy 2017, the odyssey

We’re down to less than five weeks before we (us playful “otters”-- wife and I) leave for Roma.

Now, if anyone will be in the same areas we will be on during our odyssey we’ll try for a GTG (get together).

The past two months have been a blur with “where do we really want to go and see?” and “are we trying to see too much” so we’re staying in northern Italy (Rome and north) this trip. Most of the trip is 6 to 8 day stays in one spot with day trips to cut down on moving and so we can enjoy where we are.

We have settled on flying into Rome, driving to an agriturismo outside of Tivoli for our first stay 8/28 to 8/30 with dinner at Sibilla and visiting Villa d’Este.

Todi 8/30 to 9/07, Terni, Narni, Orvieto and, Piegaro, Pieve are day trips. Having a bit of trouble finding a good website for the Sagras in Umbria for 2017 with set dates of the events, need a little help there-- anyone?

Bevagna 9/07 to 9/14, Montefalco, Foligno, Spoleto, Nocia and, Bastardo are on the food and wine list. Anyone have a favorite winery we should try or city to see?

Perugia 9/14 to 9/19, Assisi and Perugia are the only cities here BUT we’re open to restaurant suggestions.

Ravenna 9/19 to 9/22, (Mosaics) Basilica San Vital, Mausoleo di Galla Placidia, Basilica di Sant Apollinare, Dante’s Tomb and garden, Archiepiscopal Museum are what we came up with is there anything we missed? We’re stopping in Rimini for wine and goodies to cook, thanks Ian for the advice, but if anyone has a restaurant we should try, we’re listening.

Venice 9/22 to 9/30, We will be meeting Barb & Lee, whom we met through a Slow Travel GTG there in 2010 and we hope to have other GTG’s with “Slow Europeans” this trip. Museum tickets plus day trips to Vicenza and Padua by train and just wandering through Venice will keep us busy.

Lake Garda 9/30 to 10/02, This is a bucket list stay. While stationed in Vicenza in the late 60’s my battalion did a picnic there. I found a place in Sirmioni where we can set, drink our coffee and look out over the beautiful lake in the morning and re-energize ourselves for the rest of the trip, we’ll need it.

Milan 10/02 to 10/05. The last Supper and the Duomo are our main targets but no real idea about restaurants or other “must sees” any ideas?

Geneva 10/05 to 10/08. How did this work its way into a trip to Italy you ask, one word fondue, well that and a great view of the Alps.

Reggio Emilia 10/08 to 10/15. Cooking schools and cars, what more could you ask for.

Florence 10/15 to 10/22. Museums (bought the all in one card) and great restaurants (we’ll entertain restaurant ideas from members of course) and great wine, what a great trip!!

Panzano 10/22 to 10/28. We will be in walking distance of Dario’s, YES! We have mapped out the places Kathy suggested, thank you so much Kathy, this trip just gets better.

Vecchio Fienile 10/28 to 11/04. For Sentimental Reasons, we booked a week at this agriturismo north of Poggibonsi. We stayed there on Karen’s first trip to Italy in 2005 and we just loved it. It’s quiet, convenient, and complete with church bells ringing the quarter and whole hours, softly wafting through the windows at night ZZZZZZZ.

Roma in Tratevere 11/04 to 11/15. When in Roma, do as the Romans… the “Slow Travel people” swear Tratevere is where you stay to “Be Roman”… well the person whose house we are renting from is very nice, but we’re in the old Jewish quarter…how “Roman” is that?? Whatever, this is the end of our odyssey and we hope to have met other otters along the way and especially here in Roma on the 7th of November to help me get over my 70th birthday (Felice Settanta compleanno, funny, it seems to mean more when you think of it as a complete 70th year)

Mac and Karen
 
It all sounds wonderful. Where are you staying in Ravenna? I'm just starting to think about taking a 3-week trip there next May (or I may go back to Lucca for a third year).
 
You might look here on the GTG board: your dates are in a range when an Umbria GTG is planned.
 
I was hoping our trips might overlap, but it is not to be...it would have been fun to have met you. We are in San Gusme 9/30-10/7 and Rome 10/7-12. Your trip sounds wonderful...I cannot wait to hear of your adventures!
 
What an exciting trip!

Having a bit of trouble finding a good website for the Sagras in Umbria for 2017 with set dates of the events, need a little help there-- anyone?

I used to love Dan Hoestetler's (sp?) website that listed all festivals in Italy, but that is long gone.

I found this website for Tuscany - Festivals of Tuscany. And this with some for Umbria - Orvieto Info. I don't know of any good list for all festivals. Unless someone finds a better website, the answer will be to check in with the tourist office for each place when you arrive.

Ravenna 9/19 to 9/22, (Mosaics) Basilica San Vital, Mausoleo di Galla Placidia, Basilica di Sant Apollinare, Dante’s Tomb and garden, Archiepiscopal Museum are what we came up with is there anything we missed?

I think you have the list there. I have some info on Ravenna on the mains site - Day Trips - Ravenna.

When in Roma, do as the Romans… the “Slow Travel people” swear Tratevere is where you stay to “Be Roman”… well the person whose house we are renting from is very nice, but we’re in the old Jewish quarter…how “Roman” is that??

The Jewish quarter is beautiful and not far from Trastevere, but closer to the center.
 
Milan 10/02 to 10/05. The last Supper and the Duomo are our main targets but no real idea about restaurants or other “must sees” any ideas?

Besides seeing the outside of the Duomo and a visit to the interior, a climb to the roof of the Duomo will reward you with great views and interesting architecture up close. It is not a very difficult climb.

I would also suggest a visit to the Castello Sforzesco and a visit to the Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore. I just happened to stumble upon this little gem. I really enjoyed the Last Supper when I was in Milano. Have you already secured a reservation?

Your trip sounds wonderful!

susan
 
Might consider the Brera in Milan in addition to the Last Supper and the Duomo. There was a special Caravaggio exhibit when we were there. Photos don't do justice to his paintings.
 
While in Perugia it's worth the time to go to the sanctuary of La Verna: http://www.laverna.it/

It's a beautiful drive, a lovely place to walk, very peaceful and has some wonderful art in the style of della Robbia.
 
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It all sounds wonderful. Where are you staying in Ravenna? I'm just starting to think about taking a 3-week trip there next May (or I may go back to Lucca for a third year).

We're staying in a AirBNB in the middle of Ravenna, Vicolo Padenna, 21, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna 48121, Italy. Most of the trip will be AirBNB stays which are much more convenient and less expensive making this trip more affordable. In Panzano we'll be in walking distance of Dario's restaurant, in Emilia Romagna we're in the center of town. This is our first time to use AirBNB over seas so the report on this trip could be eye opener or not, we'll just have to see.

Mac
 
We were going to stay in Venice at a hotel till we found out our room was on the top floor. With my knee and Karen's hip that was a No Go. Karen found a AirBnB in Mirano on the main street with comfy beds and NO steps to clime. We've made friends with the Pizza Parlor owner at the end of the block and a cooked meats and such owner across the street.

Made it into Venice Saturday, parked at the Tronchetto Garage and headed for Piazza Roma by foot. As we crested the bridge and we could see the monster cruise ships docked and the "people mover" stop for the people from those ships. This was a "ah ha" moment for me as I could see it also went to the garage too! One and a half Euro a piece later and we were in Piazza Roma, worth ever penny too. (guess I need to keep up with the "new" things in Venice) Karen did not want to deal with the Vaporetto so we walked the east side path to the Rialto Bridge area. Karen rethought her fear of the Vaporetto and we waited with about eighty other people to get back to Piazza Roma.

Talked with a Lady about the large number of people to find out there are now around 55,000 Italians living in Venice and 20 million tourist a year visiting Venice. The Venice I loved in 1968-69 is long gone with over the top tourism and the locals are fed-up with the crowds caused by the Cruise ships. All we can hope is the city bands the ships so the city can recover.
 
What a pickle Venice is in, the EU and Italian government blocking the city from managing its self. Using more police and fines as the only resource the city has to stop people from being rude normally produces more rudeness. Even shaming rude behavior really doesn’t work. Karen saw two weirdly dressed people walking around a statue dragging their hands along it even though a sign prominently placed said not to. The career teacher in Karen went into high gear telling them “NO, NO don’t touch!” then one with a carnival mask on said “why? I’m clean” then pranced away. I’m glad I’m not in charge; I haven’t the tolerance for such deliberate rudeness.
 

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