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Help me plan my trip to Israel

Madeline recommended Richard Woolf, but we didn’t feel we wanted a guide for that area. I have two good guidebooks and we will drive ourselves to a few sites.

Thanks for the Visa info. I see they charge VAT on hotels too, to locals!
 
We leave in just over a week and I think I am ready. I have a detailed itinerary printed out with Google Maps for each place we are driving to, lists of vegetarian restaurants, lists of hours of the sites. I spent a lot of time reading the TA forums and had some detailed emails from Marian with advice. I made a list of all the things I want to see and do and then removed a bunch so we can have a slow and easy trip.

updated

Jerusalem - 7 nights, 6 days
1. Explore our area, get groceries, find a cafe, walk to Jaffa Gate and find the tourist office. Get oriented.
2. Full day with guide in the Old City. Temple Mount (limited hours, cannot go inside)? If not, see another day.
3. Mount of Olives, City of David if not covered on day 2. Old City ramparts walk.
4. Mahane Yehunda Market and modern area.
5. Old City, ramparts walk Explore Jerusalem neighborhoods, museums (Saturday - no buses).
6. Israel Museum, Ein Karem / Abu Gosh / other village near Jerusalem?
Buses stop 3pm Friday and all day Saturday.

Ein Gedi - 2 nights, 1 day
Drive from Jerusalem in the morning, Masada in the afternoon. Evening walk around Ein Gedi.
1. Hike in the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve. You cannot take food into the reserve (!!), so a walk in the morning (Wadi David), lunch outside the reserve, walk in the afternoon (Wadi Arugot). Ancient Synagogue. Main objective is the see the Nubian Ibex that are in the reserve.
Short visit to the Dead Sea. We are not going in the mud or water! But I want to touch it.

Haifa - 4 nights, 3 days
Drive from Ein Gedi in the morning stopping at Beit Shean (Roman Ruins) on the way. Explore our neighborhood in Haifa.
1. Explore Haifa. Train to Akko?
2. Spend the day in the Galilee area - Zippori (Roman ruins), Sea of Galilee sites, Safed, Rosh Pina, Amirim (vegetarian village).
3. Visit Druze villages near Haifa (Daliyat el-Carmel’s Saturday market) Explore Haifa and hike on Mount Carmel.

Tel Aviv - 1 night
Visit Cesaerea on drive to Tel Aviv (unless we find time to visit while in Haifa).
Walk along Tel Aviv beaches. Dinner at a vegetarian restaurant.
Next day leave around noon for the airport.

We are skipping so many great things. These were all removed from my list:
  • Tel Gezer (standing stones outside of Jerusalem)
  • Yad Vashem (Holocaust Museum)
  • Qumran (near Ein Gedi)
  • Megiddo (Armageddon!!)
  • Nazareth
  • Nimrod Fortress
  • Banias forests
  • Hula Valley
  • Golan Heights
If we have extra time, we may do some of them.

My Garmin GPS does not have maps for Israel, so when we get to Jerusalem we will buy a SIM card for my iPhone (unlocked) and I will use Waze as a GPS when driving.

We will buy a pass for all the Natural Parks, since we are going to several.

We are not bringing a computer on the trip. Usually we bring Steve's MS Surface, but I am nervous about having too much stuff for border checks, airport security. So we will each have our iPhone, iPad and Kindle. I am considering leaving behind the Kindle and reading on my iPad. I am not bringing my usual kitchen bag - with a chefs knife - I do not want to be going through airport security with a knife even if it is in checked luggage. I have one physical guidebook (Eyewitness) and Lonely Planet on my iPad. I have a driving map.

I have a scarf that I can put over my head if I need to. I always dress modestly, so I don't need to worry about that - shoulders and knees covered. I found Steve's yarmulke (has not been used in a long time).

I have made note of the time difference GMT +2 hours. Calling code is +972. Daylight savings happens in Israel near the end of our trip, on a different day than in the UK!
Israel: Friday, 23 March 2018, 02:00:00 clocks are turned forward 1 hour.
UK: Sunday, 25 March, clocks are turned forward 1 hour.

I am ready! I think ....
 
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Hi again, Pauline

Yes, it's getting close for you.

Looks like a great plan, but a few comments:

For Jerusalem: You've got a lot of time blocked for the Old City, three full days. I am assuming that when you are with your guide Madeleine Lavine, she will be taking you through the City of David excavations and through some of the tunnels. Perhaps also the Mount of Olives. You probably want to do the Ramparts Walk on a different day. But other than that --- I don't think you need another day to do the Old City. It's really a rather small part of Jerusalem, physically, and unless you are a Christian Pilgrim, you probably want to spend more of your time in the rest of Jerusalem, which has many many neighborhoods to wander around and sights to see. Maybe not art museums, which I know are not a draw for you, but sites connected with the history from the Ottoman period and onward through the Mandate, etc., War for Independence, etc. Lots of museums dedicated to those. And monuments throughout the (new) city, which makes for interesting walks.

I wouldn't worry too much about a yarmulke for Steve. Fun to bring his, but anyplace where he needs one there will be one available for him to use.


I think you are right not to bring your own knife, for various reasons.

Beit She'an is great. And maybe on your way from Jerusalem ot Beit Shean you will visit Mt Gilboa and perhaps see some of the famous Irises of Gilboa, if you are lucky. If that interests you, you might inquire that very morning because apparently daily information on where they are is passed among the guides in some private way.

Ha! I just realized my avatar is a photo of those very irises from my 2014 March trip!

ENjoy
 
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Thanks Marian, I will change day 5 (which is Saturday, so buses not running) to exploring Jerusalem on foot and by taxi. Or going to the outskirts of the city (maybe Sataf).

Someone told me by private message that I might be disappointed with the Druze village near Haifa as it has become very touristy. I took it off my itinerary. We needed more time in Haifa.

Marian mentioned the wild Irises on Mount Gilboa which is near Beit Shean (on our drive from Ein Gedi to Haifa). This reminded me that I have an article listing places throughout Israel for wildflowers - Top 10 places to see Israel’s spring flowers.

Sataf, from the list, is on the western edge of Jerusalem. (Almond trees and cyclamens are in bloom this time of year at Sataf, a hiking and nature preserve to the east of Har Eitan on the western fringes of Jerusalem. Cyclamens, in shades from white to dark pink, are also called Solomon’s Fire because they look like clusters of flame shooting up from rocks and shady areas.)

Hai-Bar Nature Reserve (Carmel Nature Reserve), near University of Haifa is on the list and looks like the place for us to go hiking from Haifa. (“Little Switzerland” - Carpets of lupines and irises are blooming across the Carmel region now, but the truly unusual sight to see is the special tulip variety of this area: yellow-and-brown striped “tiger” tulips that are unusually large.
 
Marian mentioned the wild Irises on Mount Gilboa which is near Beit Shean (on our drive from Ein Gedi to Haifa). This reminded me that I have an article listing places throughout Israel for wildflowers - Top 10 places to see Israel’s spring flowers.

Sataf, from the list, is on the western edge of Jerusalem. (Almond trees and cyclamens are in bloom this time of year at Sataf, a hiking and nature preserve to the east of Har Eitan on the western fringes of Jerusalem. Cyclamens, in shades from white to dark pink, are also called Solomon’s Fire because they look like clusters of flame shooting up from rocks and shady areas.)

I was up in the area of Sataf this week, and indeed this is the height of the spring bloom, especially as February has been warmer than usual. This is the time for wild lupines, orchids and bee-orchids, tulips, irises, cyclamens, wild medicinals/herbs, and more. Here are just a few :

anatoly.jpg


galil.jpg


iris.jpg


ktifa.jpg


R0005490.jpg
 
Beautiful photos and flowers! I look forward to seeing some.

---------------
On @ItalophileNJ 's recommendation I have been reading Israeli author Amos Oz "Tales of Love and Darkness". It is a book that requires attention and I have not been able to give it much because my mind keeps jumping to trip planning and packing. But, early on, there is a wonderful chapter describing a walk through Jerusalem. I have written out the details , made a Google Map for it and created a Resource - A Walk Through Jerusalem.

We will do this walk. Some of the street names have changed, but I managed to find most place he wrote about. I will update the Resource after we do the walk.

---------------
We will also do three self-guided walking tours from the Eyewitness guidebook - A 90 minute walk around the Old City Walls (some on the ramparts), A 90 minute walk around West Jerusalem and A 90 minute walk around East Jerusalem. Those walks with the Amos Oz walk should give us a good look at the city.

---------------
On the Trip Advisor Israel forums they recommend purchasing a SIM card ahead of time. There is a company where you purchase online, so you know your phone number before you leave, and pick up at the airport -
019mobile.com ($39 for 20 days - unlimited talk and text, 20gb data). I bought us each one. We both have unlocked iPhones.
 
Love those photos of the wildflowers. The time I was on Mount Gilboa I think we saw some of the cyclamen as well as the irises, which were few and far between, hidden in little niches. I was with Oreet and she had gotten some information that morning, so we persisted despite the rainy day.

I'm glad you are getting your SIM early, never know when you want to use the data.


Amos Oz book, I forgot I had recommended that. Beautifully written, even in translation. When you get there, you might want to pick up a book of the poetry of Yehuda Amichai, who is the poet of Jerusalem. Beautiful even in translation. He lived up near the top of EMek Refaim, around the Liberty Bell Garden I think. There are two bookstores close to the apartment, I always spend too much time in them.

Wishing you a good flight and easy arrival!
 
We’ve been watching an Israeli TV series on Amazon Prime, that is supposed to be like the US show Friends (I’ve never seen it) and it is filmed near to where we are staying. The show is Srugim. @Jim Zurer recommended it on Facebook. It is good for me to get an idea of what the neighborhood looks like and how people live.

The main characters are young and religious (Jewish) and that is very interesting for me too.
 
On the Trip Advisor Israel forums they recommend purchasing a SIM card ahead of time. There is a company where you purchase online, so you know your phone number before you leave, and pick up at the airport -
019mobile.com ($39 for 20 days - unlimited talk and text, 20gb data). I bought us each one. We both have unlocked iPhones.

@Pauline - was it quick to pick this up at the airport? I'll be there in Oct, but I'm travelling with a United Church of Canada group so don't know if I'll have enough time at the airport to stop into the shop. If takes only a couple minutes to collect, I might go ahead and order it anyway though.
 
They have an office beside the door where you leave the airport. When we picked up ours, we had to wait about 5 minutes because they were dealing with a few people. We went back after to ask another question and there were no people. So you might encounter a few people. I waved my pickup paper at them and they served me ahead of another guy.

They were good to deal with. We gave them our iPhones and they popped out our SIMs, taped them to a card, put in the new SIMs. We had service immediately.

So, I would say it is quick to collect, but there is the possibility that it could take longer. Is there a place where you can have one mailed to you? Also keep your phone in airplane mode until you get the new SIM. You don’t want any charges from Israel.

We are planning to travel there again in November.
 
Thanks Pauline, good to know! I just did a google search and found a company called 012global that offers a sim card for use in Israel with 10g data for $36Cdn, and it looks like they'll mail it out to customers in advance. So I think I'll give that a try.
 
Hi Pauline

Aah, so you are planning to return in November. I nearly made plans to go in mid-October, but have finally stopped obsessively checking flights. Enjoy!

For my most recent trip, May 2017, I had an Israel SIM sent to me from a middleman (I guess) named Snapir often recommended on the TA Israel forum. As a solo traveler, I like the security of having it with me before I leave rather than finding the shop, even a convenient one, in the airport. (And then there's the added adventure of popping the SIMS out and in on the plane.....)
 
We are returning in November 2018 and I have most of the trip booked. We loved our March trip and our current thought is that this is a place we want to return to regularly. It might also act as a sunny break from the UK, so we are seeing what it is like in November.

THE PLAN

Jerusalem, 10 nights, in a different apartment but from the same agency we used in March. This apartment is in a modern building a few blocks from where we stayed before in the German Colony. Our last apartment was nice but this one looks like it gets more light. http://www.colonysuites.com/Colony.php

Pick up rental car at end of stay in Jerusalem and drive to Ein Gedi.

Ein Gedi, 2 nights, in the hotel on the kibbutz on the Dead Sea. We loved this location and hotel when we stayed there in March. We had hoped to see Ibex but in March they were higher up because the females were giving birth. It was too hot for us to hike up that high. This time the Ibex should be lower down and we should be able to hike to the higher places also. http://en.ein-gedi.co.il/

Arava Valley, 2 nights, in a B&B in a farming community. This is a desert area with a lot of villages where they are doing farming. It is south of the Dead Sea. Not booked yet.

Eilat, 5 nights, in a vacation rental on the Red Sea. From here we can go north to the desert towns, explore Eilat, maybe go to Petra. Not booked yet. I have been going back and forth on Petra. I wanted to spend 2 nights at Petra, but maybe we will just go from Eilat on a day trip. You cross the border at Eilat into Jordan, then go 2 hours north (probably on a tour bus but you can get a taxi or even rent a car in Jordan - you cannot take your Israeli rental into Jordan), visit Petra and drive back.

Tel Aviv, 7 nights. Drive to Tel Aviv, stopping in Mitzpe Ramon on the way (huge crator), and drop off rental car. I booked an apartment in the Neve Tzedek area of Tel Aviv through Airbnb. https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/751204

That's the plan!
 
A new international airport will be opening at the southern tip of the country sometime this winter, at least according to the announced timetable. This might be an opportunity for anyone considering a trip to the country in the near future, as incentives will be offered to airlines to use the new site, and these incentives will hopefully trickle down to the passenger.

For anyone who shares Pauline's passion for ibex, there is a town in the south of the country - Mitzpe Ramon - that these animals like to roam in, which Pauline plans to drive through :
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf_fEx5R-kw
 
This is a good map showing the Arava Valley area in the Negev, south of the Dead Sea. It shows the moshavs (farming communities), shops, restaurants, and attractions. Very helpful because I was not able to easily figure out which villages had restaurants and shops.

http://matmon-barava.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/mapa_english.pdf

The area is in the desert, along the border with Jordan, but even though it is very near Petra, you cannot cross the border there. You have to go south to Eilat to the border crossing.
 
Looks like a wonderful plan, Pauline.

Petra ...... I've been to Israel 9 or 10 times, once or twice for nearly a month, but never yet gotten to Petra. Maybe next trip.
 
Your plan for November sounds great! I visited Petra as a day trip from Aqaba. We stayed in Aqaba at the Kempinski, left the hotel very early in the morning, spent the day in Petra, including lunch, then drove back to Aqaba. We crossed into Israel the next morning and flew back up to Tel Aviv then on to Jerusalem.

I would not recommend this. I would highly suggest you stay in Petra. It was an exhausting way to do it and we had a driver! Petra was amazing and I have heard from so many people that going in at night when it is lit up along the path to the Treasury is truly special and am sad I missed doing that. We had no choice as we were a group and all the rooms in Petra were booked for a convention and had to do it this way.
 
I really did not enjoy the candle lit Petra at night. It was not worth the effort after a long day of touring. The trek to the Treasury is not easily walk-able as there are uneven paving stones and the lighting is limited to candles lining the perimeter. You spend your time looking at the ground in both directions to ensure you don't stumble. The show itself was hokey. No chairs, you sit on rugs which is tough on the back after an hour or so. I was really excited to do this but the reality was disappointing. Better to expend the energy hiking up to the monastery.
We spent the night at the Petra Moon Hotel, it was okay but next time I will definitely splurge on the Movenpick. The location is great and it has the feel of an old world Agatha Christie type hotel (at least in the lobby where we sat and enjoyed delicious lemon mint cold drinks). If you are making the effort to get to Petra, you really ought to spend one night. There is lots to explore.
 
That's interesting Peabody. I've had at least 15 ppl rave about it. Maybe it has changed over the years as they said it was just a lit path. No one ever mentioned a show.

Either way I still say stay in Petra. I only saw a fleeting glance of Eilat from the bus so I don't really have a feel for it. I loved our hotel in Aqaba but agin didn't see the town since we were out all day and had big Bedouin style dinner in Wadi Rum, which was stunning.
 

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