• CONTACT US if you have any problems registering for the forums.

Berner Oberland Switzerland - Lenk in the Alps, September 2014

The Alps in Switzerland in the Bern Canton.
Hi Pauline, wonderful photos. This area looks so beautiful and it must be so amazing hiking the trails there. The photo of you with the cow is so cool. I'm looking forward to seeing photos of the cow parade. Will you be doing a video clip too. :)
 
It is amazing here. We are having a great time.

The Cow Parade, called Alpabfahrt in German, did not disappoint. Here are some photos. I tried to take a movie but realized I had never tried out that function on my new camera, so I just got a bit.

full


full


full
 
Awe! this is so awesome. The bells are really huge. I love the flower arrangements. What a fun event. I would love to maybe see this one day myself too. Thanks so much Pauline for sharing! I love it.
 
We got to the Cow Parade at 11am when things were just starting. It was hard to figure out how the cows featured in all this because the brochure only talked about the booths and food. The cows were never mentioned.

The festival was held at the St Stephan air strip. We paid 8CHF each to get in. There were craft booths with local and top quality things - hand woven dish towels (I didn't buy any!), traditional Swiss clothing, carved wooden things, and local food products.

The main food tent was very popular and had not one thing for the poor vegetarian. The drinks booth was popular too. We did find a cheese booth and had a raclette type dish - melted cheese on bread with pickle.

There was a performance area. The local Yodel clubs were fantastic. A large group of men sort of singing, sort of yodeling, but not that type of yodel like yod-ah-lay-ee-ooh. This was different. The local alpen horn group was interesting too.

But for us it was all about the cows. People were walking up and standing along a narrow lane that went up into the hills. We walked up too and waited. Then we heard the clanging bells. Then the cows appeared. Each farming family brings down their cows. The program listed about 12 families, how many cows, what their farm produced. The family are dressed in tradition dress, with long sticks for herding the cows. First comes someone holding a sign with the family name. Then the cows wearing huge bells and with flowers on their heads.

The cows try to leave the road when they spot grass, they walk into each other. One sprayed me with shit while I was taking photos (below the knee only, trousers and shoes).

It was amazing. We watched two groups of cows come down. I think it went on all afternoon.

When they get down the hill, they walk once around the festival area, then head out to their farms. We left at 1pm and driving back to Lenk on the main road had to stop because one of the cow groups was walking along the road. We crept behind them for 15 mins (more shitting and some major peeing, not me but the cows), then the farmer waved me to a side road and us and the cars that had gathered behind roared off down small lanes to get ahead of the cows.

Showers had been forecast but the weather was perfect. Sunny and 70F. We drove back to town, parked and walked up the valley along the river to Simmenfall (where we drove to last Sunday). This was a lovely walk, 2 hours round trip, slightly uphill on the way out, on a footpath in woods and fields along the river (which comes from the glacier). We had coffee at the restaurant at Simmenfal, sitting at an outside table with a view of the falls.

Today was the first day we heard and saw Americans! We heard some Brits on the trails last week, but had not heard an American accent until today. There were probably 10 at the festival. The tourists here seem to be all Swiss and German.

Another wonderful day. Now I look forward to the drive up our hill (Steve drives down, I drive up). Once you realize you aren't going to crash, you can enjoy the views.
 
They have barns and houses up in the alpine meadows. I was wondering about milking - don't cows need to be milked every day? I think the farmers move their whole operation up there.

But, the cows on Minchinhampton Commons (near us in the Cotswolds) don't have barns and they are not milked. Hummm. But I think they are not dairy cows.

For someone who likes cows so much, I know nothing about them. I will do some research.
 
Today was sunny and warm, hot at times. We drove up the one way mountain road to Iffigenalp. The drive was steep but the road was good. The one way part was only 8 mins and it was nice knowing no one was coming towards you. The road takes you from Lenk at 1000 meters to Iffigenalp at 1500. The drive is beautiful, up a tree covered hillside, beside a huge waterfall, up to an alpine meadow. At the end of the road was parking, and a lot of cars, a restaurant and a couple of other houses. The farm was selling alp cheese.

The restaurant was full for Sunday lunch when we arrived at noon. We had sandwiches with us (peanut butter, yet again).

The first part of the walk was a gentle uphill through a beautiful valley. The rock mountains, with a few patches of old snow, were close to us. We decided to walk up to Iffigsee even though it was a climb because the hiking sign said 2hr 15min. It took us 3 hr 15 mins to get to the lake (500 meter, 1640 feet, climb), but only 1 hr 15 mins to get back! That is because on the way back we did not have to stop every 10 mins to rest.

It was a very steep climb after the first easy 45 mins. Everyone passed us. A couple carrying a baby, the young people carrying heavy mountain bikes (they then road them back down the very steep and rocky path), people our age. We kept thinking we were almost there but then you could see that the path went higher.

We bargained. If we don't see the lake from that next corner, we turn around. We didn't see it but we kept on. We stopped a group and asked if they spoke English. We asked how much further. They said 20 mins. We asked if they thought it was steep. They said you are in Switzerland. 20 mins later we stopped a French speaking group. Only 20 mins more they said, and it is worth it.

We finally made it and it was worth it. A picture perfect shimmering alpine lake set up against the rock mountain. It was 3:30 by the time we arrived and we were worried about getting back so late. We had our lunch with a view of the lake, dodging the cigarette smoke from one of the guys who had easily passed us on the trail. Then we headed down hoping to make the 6:00-6:15 driving down time slot.

The walk back was amazingly easy and did not seem as steep as I thought it would. We were at the car by 5:00pm.

It was sunny all day. What a beautiful walk, but we are feeling it. Sitting on the terrace tonight I can almost see where we were today. From the walk I could see the Hahnenmoos pass where we were a few days ago.

Photo from the trail looking at where we have to climb. Up to the top of that green hill in the middle, then more further back.

full


Photo from the trail, almost at the lake, looking back to where we came from. From the lowest part of the valley.

full


Photo of Iffigsee, the alpine lake.

full
 
We were too tired to walk down to the lake. I wonder how cold it is? It must come from the glacier. I lived in Jasper, Alberta for a summer. It was the color of those alpine lakes.
 
Another sunny and warm, almost hot, day. The forecast was for some rain but it did not happen until this evening.

Today we drove to Zweisimmen to get our Gstaad area pass and do a hike. Things are quiet today. There were a lot of people around on the weekend. We parked and spent 20 mins walking in circles to find the tourist office. Finally found it and got our passes. 3 consecutive days on all the Gstaad-Saanen-Zweisimmen mountain rides, buses and trains for 13 CHF per person per day. This is a very good deal. To do the hike we did today would have cost 55 CHF per person for the gondola up, chairlift down, and train back (more than the 3 day pass).

We looked for sandwiches at a bakery, but all they had was meat, so we bought cheese for me, smoked salmon for Steve and rolls at the supermarket. And bananas - my favorite hiking fuel.

We took the Rinderberg gondola up to the mountaintop. It was a long 25 minute ride with great views. Then we did the pretty easy 2 hr walk across the mountain tops to the Horneggli chairlift. Beautiful views on this walk. We could see the hill our chalet is on and down to St Stephan where the Cow Parade was. As we got further along we could see the Lauenen and Gstaad valleys. We past a farmhouse with a small restaurant, and cheese for sale. At Hornberg, 20 mins before the end, there is a hotel and two restaurants.

The chairlift down was exciting, too exciting. We have been on gondolas only on this trip. This chairlift has a horrible plastic cover that comes down over you and I was not looking forward to that. We got onto the chair a bit disorganized. Steve was taking off his backpack, so I grabbed his hiking pole while he did that and that was when the cover and grab bar and thing you put your feet on came down. But I had the pole up and it wedged between the seat and the cover, resulting in our chair hurtling out into the sky with nothing holding us in! I managed to get the pole unstuck and Steve pulled down the thing that holds you in and that you put your feet on but the plastic cover did not come down. I am looking terrified and thinking "this is it" and Steve says "isn't this what you wanted, the chairlift with no cover?" I guess he was right and I calmed down after 5 mins. But I really thought we were going to fall off and it is pretty high up.

The ride down was nice and we saw another chairlift where the people had pushed back the cover so I guess it is okay.

We walked to the train station and got the 3:33 train back to Zweisimmen. Groceries at their larger Coop, coffee and cake, and then we drove home. It had rained in Lenk but we only had good weather on the walk. Tonight there are thunderstorms.

Photo of view from the hike.

full


Photo of view from the hike.

full


Photo from the chairlift.

full
 
Terrifying story for someone who is scared of chairlifts. You're lucky you didn't have me along screaming and sobbing that I was going to die!
 
I've seen people in winter riding those sorts of lifts - I think the covers are just optional: you use them if you want to stop the rain/snow/wind blowing right at you. But on a lovely late summer day like today, have it open for the uninterrupted views!
 
The weather forecast was for rain, and it rained! Overcast and light rain on and off all morning, so we lazed about and went out after lunch. We drove to Gstaad (45 mins) and the weather got better, so we went to the Wispile gondola in Gstaad. We did not have time for a real hike because it was 2:30 when we got there and the mountain rides and buses stop around 5pm. So we walked out for 30 mins then walked back. This is day 2 of our 3 day pass for Gstaad mountain rides, so we wanted to use it.

We have hiked from here several times and it was nice to do the ride with great views of Gstaad and do the short walk. It wasn't sunny, but it did not rain.

After we went into Gstaad. The main part of town is a 10 block pedestrian street, lined with beautiful old wooden chalets many of which now house art shops, designer clothing shops, restaurants etc. There are still some real businesses left but you know you are in a jet-set place.

We got some fabulous sourdough bread from the bakery and, for a snack, buttered pretzel things (which we ate while driving back to Lenk - American style). There was so much butter! My allowance for the month! Very good.

The Gstaad and Saanen area has grown since we were last there in 2007. Lots of new chalets, lots of construction going on now. Saanen was a sleepy village but now has a pedestrian Main Street and more shops, cafés and restaurants. It even has a new tunnel so traffic bypasses the town.

Everything looked beautiful in the mist and rain today.

Photo of our short hike at Wispile.

full


Photos of Gstaad.

full


full


full
 
Woke up to a sunny day with some cloud. We decided to do the Zweisimmen (Sparenmoos) to Schonreid (Rellerli) hike with the last day of our Gstaad pass. We drove to the Zweisimmen train station intending to take the train to Schonreid and start there but the 10:30 bus to Sparenmoos pulled up beside us and we hoped on. This meant we would start with a 25 min bus ride up a restricted mountain road, then walk across the hill tops to the Rellerli gondola which would take us to Schoenreid where we would get the train back. And that is what we did.

The walk was supposed to be 3 hrs according to the hiking signs, but it took us 4 hours including lunch. Years ago we were told the hiking times were set to the pace of Swiss grandmothers. Back then we were much younger than Swiss grandmothers but we found the pace about right. Our first hiking trip in Switzerland was 1988. Now, as Steve pointed out today, we are older than Swiss grandmothers so it takes us a bit longer.

We started walking at 11am. The first 30 mins was on paved road but no cars. There were a few groups starting out from the bus, but we all eventually spread out and we did not see many people on the walk. In September the weekends are busy, but during the week the trails are quiet. The next 30 mins was on dirt road and then the trail went out into the woods and fields.

Beautiful views at first towards the Zweisimmen valley, then the trail goes way back so you see the mountains and valley to the west. The walk was harder than the one we did on the other side of the valley on Tuesday, and harder than I remembered. Lots of up and down. In this direction it is overall uphill, but with only a 200 meter difference. Some mud from all the rain yesterday. At the end you have a good view of Gstaad.

We had sun at the beginning, then some dark clouds but it did not rain and we got the sun again. Perfect walking weather.

We took the gondola down then walked a few blocks to the train station and made the 3:33 train with 2 mins to spare. We were not rushing because Steve's watch is fast and we thought we missed it. Nice train ride back, then drove back to Lenk from Zweisimmen.

Steve and I are both loving being here. I like how well set up it is for walking. These walks we do are listed on the tourist information, are well signed and are designed to eliminate big climbs by using the mountain rides. The Swiss know how to look after tourists. There are lots of hikers around.

The apartment we are in is in a chalet with 3 apartments - one below us and one beside us. They have been empty. There is another chalet beside us. A family turned up for that chalet but they only stayed for the weekend (we met them because we were in their parking space - I forgot where we were supposed to park). The town is not that busy.

Two more days. I have a longish hike planned for Friday. The forecast is sunny but colder - 55F. It has been in the high 60s until now. Tomorrow something easy I think. Saturday we drive to Samoens in the French alps.

The only downside of this apartment is - no washing machine. We usually wear our hiking trousers and the same old t-shirts. After an hour on the trail you don't look clean anyway. I have done a bit of hand washing because I packed for colder weather, not realizing how warm it would be.

Photos of another cow. This is a nice female. Later on the walk we entered a field of young males. What a different energy! Not wanting to be patted, looking a bit aggressive.

full


Photo of one of the many water troughs, fed from a spring.

full


Photo of the view of Gstaad.

full
 
Pauline
Your photos are sublime. I did think the lake looked like Lake Louise area and then you said Jasper

I have to learn how to take and post photos.
Does this mean you'll be abandoning the Cotswolds and moving to Switzerland?
The comment about being older than a Swiss grandmother made me laugh.
For relaxed travelers you seem to get around.
 
Does this mean you'll be abandoning the Cotswolds and moving to Switzerland?
No chance! This is great hiking for a few weeks but I am missing the Cotswold trails. Plus you can only hike here from June to September. And I don't ski.

I think this trip has made us decide to come back to Switzerland for a hiking vacation every summer, like we used to do.
 
There was a heavy layer of cloud this morning, covering the mountain tops. By noon you could see it would burn off, so we headed out. We took the gondola to Leiterli, the mountaintop we look out on, and walked back to Lenk. We took a different route from last week, a bit longer and much nicer.

We had packed sandwiches and had lunch in a meadow near the start of the walk. We saw the AlpKlang again, where cow bells are run along the chairlift wires.

We walked back towards the mountains in a lovely valley, then swung around to do the descent to Lenk. The middle part of the walk was on a dirt road. The views were great, looking up to the surrounding mountains. Then the trail went into the woods along a stream. After days of alpine meadows it was nice to be in woods. We joined the shorter path we took last week and stopped at a restaurant about 30 mins from Lenk. Had a very good coffee and kuchen.

The walk took about 3 hrs but was all gentle downhill. It was cooler today and the sun went back and forth. No one else was on the trail, but we passed a few farmers out in the fields.

Photo of cows walking by our vacation rental this morning. They are still bringing them down from the higher meadows. These ones ended up in a field below us.

full


Photo from the walk from Leiterli to Lenk.

full


Photo of hiking signs.

full
 

How to Find Information

Search using the search button in the upper right. Search all forums or current forum by keyword or member. Advanced search gives you more options.

Filter forum threads using the filter pulldown above the threads. Filter by prefix, member, date. Or click on a thread title prefix to see all threads with that prefix.

Sponsors

Booking.com Hotels in Europe
AutoEurope.com Car Rentals

Recommended Guides, Apps and Books

52 Things to See and Do in Basilicata by Valerie Fortney
Italian Food & Life Rules by Ann Reavis
Italian Food Decoder App by Dana Facaros, Michael Pauls
French Food Decoder App by Dana Facaros, Michael Pauls
She Left No Note, Lake Iseo Italy Mystery 1 by J L Crellina

Share this page

Back
Top