Talk to me about the Piedmont

[Amy]

Pauline, here's the huge listing of walking maps for Piemonte. Click on a town from the left menu, or otherwise sort the list. Piemonte Walking Trails

And I've found the people in the Alba and Asti tourist office are usually helpful; the Asti office had a particularly good array of brochures and maps.

 

[Pauline]

Thanks @Amy ! I drifted away from working on this trip but will back to it soon.

 

[Pauline]

I am now doing a more detailed search for a rental in the Piedmont for mid-May. We will spend 2 nights in Aosta (to see the Ibex in Cogne, if they are down at lower altitudes), then drive south to Levanto in Liguria for 10 nights, then back north for a week in the Piedmont. I would like to stay around Asti.

Thanks for the suggestions @Ian Sutton but they are too far north, I think, for this trip. I am having a hard time sorting through the Airbnb and Homeaway listings. I think we would like to be in a village with a few services or on an Agriturismo near a town/village.

Toni gave me a few suggestions, but nothing seems just right for us yet.

Ideas? I can't even check the SlowTrav reviews because they are gone now.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Pauline
Just one place we stayed near Asti, 5km south of Asti, in an agriturismo attached to Rovero winery / grappa distillery.
http://www.agriturismoilmilin.it/agriturismo-piedmont.htm
I recall the place was good, spacious, well-fitted etc. nothing to fault it, though nothing exceptional to really shout about.

However a small negative, was that despite being convivial for their evening banquets, the food was fairly humdrum by Agriturismo standards. In addition, it's not really practical to walk into Asti, and the local bus service isn't too frequent. Still at 5km away, using taxis arguably makes better sense than irregular buses or hiring a car.

I had a quick look on agriturismo.it I'm wondering whether this might appeal, it certainly has character https://www.agriturismo.it/it/agriturismi/piemonte/asti/DimoraCortese-6150483/index.html

One reason for looking around here is it's one of the places I know there is a bus service (IIRC introduced when they closed the train line between Alba and Asti). Here's the bus timetable
http://www.buscompany.it/sites/default/files/orari/045FS.pdf
The bus service can be a bit sparse around here, but get on a good route and it can work well.

I can't recall Costagnole (delle Lanze) as I wasn't paying much attention on the bus, but a quick google map suggests it's got a reasonable amount of stuff there. 30 mins to Asti and 25 to Alba (and I'm told Neive is nice as well). Interestingly it goes on to Santa Vittoria d'Alba, which has a great agriturismo we stayed at. Definitely further than you want from Asti though.

Regards
Ian

 

[Pauline]

Thanks Ian, I will look at these. We will have a car. I am not looking for a place that serves meals - we usually do our own cooking (with all the wonderful things we find in the shops and markets).

 

[Pauline]

... I had a quick look on agriturismo.it I'm wondering whether this might appeal, it certainly has character https://www.agriturismo.it/it/agriturismi/piemonte/asti/DimoraCortese-6150483/index.html

That looks beautiful, but it is just B&B rooms - we need an apartment or house with a kitchen. It does say they have an apartment, but I found their website and the apartment is not mentioned there. However, the English version of the website says "Call to Action" above the reservation form and I like that!

 

[Pauline]

Just one place we stayed near Asti, 5km south of Asti, in an agriturismo attached to Rovero winery / grappa distillery.
http://www.agriturismoilmilin.it/agriturismo-piedmont.htm
I recall the place was good, spacious, well-fitted etc. nothing to fault it, though nothing exceptional to really shout about.

This place looks nice and has two apartments. I will look in more detail tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[jan]

Here is a place I have bookmarked:

http://www.sorisg.com/apartments/?lang=en

Sorry but I don't recall who told me about it.

 

[Ann]

We stayed here in La Morra for a couple of weeks in 2016 and loved it: www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p6441767#. Terrific hostess, and La Morra is a perfect location. These apartments -- https://www.corderodimontezemolo.com/en/insights/hospitality/ -- also come highly recommended by a regular contributor to the Piedmont on Chowhound. Major difference that I can see: our apartment was in the center of town, although very quiet, and the others are located on a wine estate right outside La Morra.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Pauline
I will post the link to the place in Santa Vittoria anyway. Good pool, lovely grounds, spacious & modern 2 bed apartments with very large open-plan lounge, kitchen diner. Washing machine & dishwasher, plus oven etc. Barbecue / patio area overlooking the pool. There was even breakfast included which was decent by Italian standards but could easily be skipped if inconvenient.
http://www.valdispinso.it/
Strongly recommended, especially if a pool appeals.

The location is between Bra and Alba, and the location semi famous for the Anthony Quinn film 'Secret of Santa Vittoria'

Regards
Ian

p.s. very odd that they mention rooms, but these were apartments when we stayed ~ 5 years ago. I'd be surprised if they've done a refit, but who knows.

 

[Pauline]

Here is a place I have bookmarked:

http://www.sorisg.com/apartments/?lang=en

Sorry but I don't recall who told me about it.

They look very nice and I love the videos of the apartments!

 

[Pauline]

We stayed here in La Morra for a couple of weeks in 2016 and loved it: www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p6441767#. Terrific hostess, and La Morra is a perfect location.

Perfect! But booked for the week I want!

 

[Pauline]

These apartments -- https://www.corderodimontezemolo.com/en/insights/hospitality/ -- also come highly recommended by a regular contributor to the Piedmont on Chowhound. Major difference that I can see: our apartment was in the center of town, although very quiet, and the others are located on a wine estate right outside La Morra.

These look great and are on my short list. The are a bit south of where I am aiming for. Thanks!

 

[Pauline]

I am making a map with the towns and accommodations suggested. This helps me figure out the area. I booked our flights using miles. We are going in and out of Milan - Linate. Turin would be better but BA flys out of Gatwick for Turin, with only one flight a day. Milan is out of Heathrow which is closer for us.


View on Google Maps.View: https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1-k_RuX5aU4-N1W93ktvduWiLmNjYH4HH

 

[Ian Sutton]

To throw another suggestion into the pot, some friends speak highly of Calamandrana, and this also puts you close to the historic centre of Asti/Moscato d'Asti production in Canelli. I'm told these cellars are places that even those uninterested in wine enjoy visiting.

I'll also make a logistical case for staying in Northern Piemonte, so that the transfers are not so huge. Ivrea, Biella, Gattinara, Lake Orta & Novara all have their charms, plus when eating out there should be some interesting (and vegetarian) risotto to enjoy.

 

[Amy]

Pauline, I took a look through my bookmarks, and here's a rental that might appeal.
Milleluci

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Pauline
Going back to the original post, I certainly ought to put a good word in for the Langhe wine regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, which includes at least two recommendations here (from Ann and Amy / La Morra and Monforte). The reason for this is walking was a key focus and a history of shared & divided ownership of vineyards mean that VERY few are in sole ownership of one winery.... thus access is free to all to walk through, as no-one can put up fences. The result is a wonderful criss-cross of routes, directly through the vineyards, but also taking in some lovely woodland and the odd building / ruin. Navigation is easy, though there is a lovely walking map for ~€7 available in the local tourist offices. A picnic and maybe a chilled bottle of Brachetto or unoaked Barbera can be a joy in such a setting. An alternative in Monforte is La Rosa Gialla with a range of different apartments and a pleasant sunny patio/garden. There's just enough in Monforte to not need to worry about heading elsewhere for groceries and the dining is pretty good.

Treiso/Neive put you closer to Alba (yet still with mostly shared vineyards) - arguably walkable to Alba though we never did make that, and Alba is interesting and with a fine market / great food shops.

That said, shared ownership might be common in the Monferrato, we've not explored it.

Regards
Ian

 

[Pauline]

Pauline, I took a look through my bookmarks, and here's a rental that might appeal. Milleluci

I am being too fussy, but I don't like the swimming pool at the back door.

These apartments -- https://www.corderodimontezemolo.com/en/insights/hospitality/ -- also come highly recommended by a regular contributor to the Piedmont on Chowhound.

These places look great, but I feel guilty staying at a place so devoted to wine, when we don't drink. Wine drinkers should stay there. Right now it feels like the whole Piedmont is devoted to wine.

An alternative in Monforte is La Rosa Gialla with a range of different apartments and a pleasant sunny patio/garden.

These look very nice but are booked for the last 2 nights of the week I am looking at. Still, we could do 5 nights there and then have 2 nights somewhere else.
http://www.larosagialla.it/en/accomodations/apartments

My Current Shortlist

Sori San Giovanni (recommended by Jan on the forums)
http://www.sorisg.com
Via Bricco San Giovanni 1/A, 14057 - Isola D'Asti
South of Asti, 4 apartments
Dolcetto available, DOLCETTO (4 guests): 140 € per day

Cà d'Reggio in Canelli
South of Asti, north of Acqui Terme
https://www.homeaway.co.uk/p1476075
2bed/2bath, garden, views, nice inside, good reviews
also on Booking.com
https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/ca-d-39-reggio.html?aid=356983

Palazzo Asinari
Via Palestro 2, 14053 Canelli, Italy
Canelli population 10,000
https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/palazzo-asinari-canelli12.html
https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/17614424
2 burner stovetop, in a town
No reviews - new.
The apartment is located on the first floor of an old building located in the center of Canelli. Spacious living room with fully equipped kitchenette and double sofa bed, bedroom and bathroom with shower.

Thoughts?

 

[Pauline]

That said, shared ownership might be common in the Monferrato, we've not explored it.

Toni Hilton said it is like that in her area too, the Monferrato.

 

[Ian Sutton]

Hi Pauline
Yes wine is a special reason to go there, but the food and walking are top class, and I'm usually banging on at wine enthusiasts to make time for the wonderful walks.

Never any pressure from winery agriturismi to taste their wines, though they're happy to arrange something if you want to, and indeed book other winery visits. Wine is a draw for many, but it also acts as a draw for some very good restaurants (and a lot that are really quite inexpensive). However the French/Savoy influence undoubtedly had a part to play in making the local cuisine as good as it is. It's easy enough to avoid the wine, even in places that sound like a temple to the stuff. Can you avoid wine in Piemonte? Difficult I reckon, it really is made in most places, though I suppose out west around Cuneo it's more of a functional rather than aspiring industry. Still they have their Snails to get excited about! (n.b. we're big fans of Cuneo as well).

Another idea to throw in - somewhat off the beaten track (and with wine not much of a local focus at all, though the local Moscato is good) - Tre Colline in Langa. It's on the edge of a village called Bubbio, not far from Acqui Terme and also handy for some great walking around Castino (albeit plenty of local walks without the need for a car). The hosts are wonderful Paola who runs the kitchen and Max (Massimiliano) who handles more of the meet & greet / front of house. They have a single apartment, plus B&B rooms. The apartment is good. Bubbio probably doesn't see many tourists but it's a pleasing modest village with decent road connections. Maybe 15-20 shops in total, all pleasingly functional. They do meals and assuming Paola can do a veggie option, recommended - loads of food for the money (beware of them coming round offering second portions of the early dishes, as there's more than enough food). The setting is convivial, the pace of the meal good, and what can appear at times as good honest and understated food can disguise some sparks of excellence (e.g. a fennel sformato that would have not disgraced a michelin starred chef for its flavour - albeit without the frippery of the starred restaurants). http://www.trecollineinlanga.it/

We will return there, though normally I'm slightly reticent to recommend it, as it's really not a very obvious choice for anyone more used to the tourist trail.

Regards
Ian