Northern Italy Hiking in the Dolomites, Italy in 2020

[jonathan]

As we've probably told you, we really like Baden Baden: I see from my notebook that we've stayed there at the beginning of 9 of our 11 Ostuni road trips!
A shame about the weather (both in Südtirol and for that return journey): driving the Autobahn in heavy rain is never very nice. But it was lovely to see your photos of the Seiseralm & Ortisei: nice memories of our time there quite a few years ago now.
Welcome home! And while I certainly wouldn’t want to be in Trump's America right now, I'm not sure that we're doing very much better over here... (whoops - is that too political for SE? )

 

[Pauline]

We made it home at 8pm Saturday night after 12 hours on the road. The autoroute in France was empty. The Chunnel area was not busy but we managed to read a sign wrong and spent 30 minutes driving around that area of shopping malls and not finding the Chunnel. Roads home were good.

Photos of food things we hauled home.

From Switzerland: rosti, muesli, alpine herbs, linzertorte, cookies, cough drops, toothpaste.

From Italy: dried porcini, pesto, pasta sauce, honey.

From France: olive oil, salt, toothpaste. We stopped at a natural foods shop in Abbeville on the way down.

 

[Pauline]

And while I certainly wouldn’t want to be in Trump's America right now, I'm not sure that we're doing very much better over here...

Yes, my thoughts exactly. What a mess.

Baden Baden was on my list because you told me about it. Still on my list. Next year!

 

[Terry]

Loved reading your report, and so glad you liked the area. That’s a shame about the weather.

 

[Georgia & Zig]

Sunday, September 20
Sunny with some cloud, hot enough (70F)

We were going to go to the area @Marta recommended but reading online it seems to be very popular and because it is Sunday we thought it might be crowded. Instead we did a hike in our valley. The map I bought helped me figure out a good route right from the place we are staying. We walked 4.5 miles only, but climbed 500m (1700feet) which was about 300m more than I was expected. We were out for four hours. The hike was fantastic.

The weather forecast for today, and the week, was not good. It showed cloud with some sun and rain in late afternoon. The rain did not come and the day was sunny and hot. I hope the rest of the week is like this.

From the place we are staying we got on the trail, #9, across the road (started at 1200m). It started out quite steep and we spent 50 minutes climbing up through woods. We saw a couple of groups on this first part of the trail. When we got near the top we had a view through the trees to Castelrotto below us.

After an hour we reached a hutte (Schafstall) serving food and drinks (1500m). It was noon and there were people at the tables. We continued on the trail but now there was a stream of people heading towards us. We were heading for the top station of a chairlift and they must have taken it up from Castelrotto to do an easy 20 minute walk to the restaurant. Some may have been hiking up to Alpe di Siusi, a big climb.

We reached the chairlift and there was a large sunny meadow with benches and lounger chairs placed here and there. There were small goats and horses wandering around. And a restaurant. There were people eating, some getting the sun, others heading off on trails. We found a bench and got out our lunch. Immediately a small, and very cute, goat appeared at my feet. Then he was on the bench. Then he was butting against me and chewing my fingers. More small goats appeared. We put our sandwiches away and found a more remote bench.

We took the gondola down to Castelrotto (from 1500m down to 1000m). This was pretty freaky. It was inexpensive compared to Switzerland (€7 each) but the chairs were old and we were quickly in them and flinging out into the air while struggling to pull down the barrier that keeps you in. The ride down was very slow and took us right into the town center.

We walked around town looking for apple strudel. We found some in a cafe that also sold pastries and got two pieces to take home.

The next part of the hike was supposed to be flat and easy but I didn’t realise that it is a 200m climb from Castelrotto to where we are staying (#10 trail). It took us an hour and a half and was a gentle climb. The trail was beautiful going beside old farm houses, then into woods and out into fields. We saw a few people on this part.

When we got back to our place we had walked around this valley. It was a wonderful walk and we were back early enough to sit on the terrace and enjoy the sun.

I am starting to appreciate how good this area is for hiking. Mantrails, well signed, lots of options, buses and mountain rides, hiking resources in English, beautiful scenery. I am happy we finally came here.

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Walking up and up through the woods.

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View down to Castelrotto.

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Schafstall Hutte.

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Goats.

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Taking the gondola down to Castelrotto.

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Walking on the #10 trail out of Castelrotto.

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Many Christ on the crosses in this town.

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Looking back at Castelrotto from the trail.

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Looking at the place we are staying. Four chalet style apartments built into the hillside below a farmhouse and barn (center of photo). Behind them is hillside we climbed at the start of the hike.

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The best apple strudel!

That gondola down to Castelrotto has been replaced by a wonderful new enclosed gondola which holds six people. We went up in it this year with our granddaughter who wanted to hike.

 

[Georgia & Zig]

Wednesday, September 23
Overcast, rain in the morning

It was overcast with very low cloud this morning. No hiking on Alpe di Siusi because it is too high and will be in cloud. We put on our rain trousers, first time this trip, and headed out to walk in the rain and mud. After all, we hike in that in England.

We drove a few miles west, past Castelrotto, past Siusi where we got the gondola to the Alpe di Siusi, to a group of three small towns that sit under the towering Sciliar mountains that you see from Alpe di Siusi. The mountains were hidden by cloud but the towns were sunny. Wished we brought regular trousers to change into!

The main town is Fie and we parked there and did a walk around the town (small). It is perched above a steep valley. We weren’t up to a big hike, so did a really nice circular trail around the town. It went along the edge of the valley and then through farms on the other side. We walked for just under 2 hours (4 miles). We lost the trail at one point but found another trail that took us back to town.

We passed several apple orchards and even saw vineyards (seems too far north).

The weather tomorrow looks similar to today, cloud and some sun, so we would have to do a low level walk. We are both feeling worn out and not looking forward to Friday’s 8+ hour drive followed by a longer drive the next day. So we are going to leave tomorrow midday and drive just 2+ hours through Austria to Germany, to Garmisch Partenkirchen. That will make Friday’s drive easier. Friday’s weather is going to be bad in the mountains so we will be out of them in an hour or so.

Too bad we had bad weather but we got to see something of this lovely area, did a few hikes and cut down our quarantine time. I recommend the place we’ve been staying, Aura Chalets. The apartment is very comfortable, the bed really comfortable, and the views beautiful. We’ve enjoyed staying here.

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Fie, a small historic center.

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On the trail, a Christ with hanging corn.

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Looking down to the autostrada at the bottom of the valley.

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Views towards the apple orchards and mountains.

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Along the trail.

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Coming back to town.

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Hiking signs in town.

We were blessed in June to get to take the Seceda gondola to the top. The weather was perfect and our granddaughter was able to fly off the mountain with one of the fly companies up there. She wasn’t afraid at all but we were terrified for her.