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Wales Portmeirion, an Italianate Village in North Wales

Set on a wooded peninsula on the North Wales coast, many people still identify Portmeirion to the iconic 1960s ITV series “The Prisoner”. It is one of the major tourist attractions in the area and a feast for the eyes. As well as the village itself there are miles of footpaths through the woodland, past lakes and follies. It is quite easy to spend a full day here.

Portmeirion was designed by the quirky architect Sir Clough Williams Ellis who lived at Plas Brondanw a few miles away. He was an advocate for the establishment Snowdonia National Park. At Portmeirion, he wanted to show how an area like this could be developed without spoiling its natural beauty. He did this over 50 years by creating an eye striking Italianate style village, using pieces from demolished buildings. The only pre-existing building was the Castell Deudraeth, a Victorian castellated mansion, which has been restored as an upmarket hotel serving meals to non residents.

The excitement begins entering through the gatehouse with views across the Dwyryd estuary to the mountains of Mid Wales. It then just gets better and better.

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It is an exciting place to visit and a photographers delight with its brightly painted buildings in shades of bright yellow, vivid pinks and vibrant ochres.

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There is even a grotto with a golden Buddha.

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Buildings and vegetation are carefully laid out to present vistas which change as you walk around the village.

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This is a mild climate and palm trees flourish. Carefully tended flower beds were planted up with brightly coloured bulbs, helebores and spring flowering heathers in late March.

The village is built round a central piazza with a small pond surrounded by palm trees. At one end is the Glorietta and at the other the Gothic pavilion.

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Off it is a small street with shops and the Town Hall which was one of the first buildings to be built. outside it is a verdigris statue of Hercules, which William Ellis bought in Edinburgh and towed on a trailer to Portmeirion.

On the edge of the sea with views across the Dwyryd estuary, is the white painted Portmeirion Hotel picked out in the very characteristic Clough Ellis turquoise. Next to it is a stone pirate ship, the Amis Reunis which is a popular play area for the children.

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Portmeirion Estate and Gardens

Most people visit Portmeirion for the Italianate village, but it is also worth spending time exploring the vast estate around the village with its miles of footpaths through woodland, past lakes and follies.

Beyond the Portmeirion Hotel on the side of the Dwyryd estuary, a footpath goes along the wooded shoreline past the watchtower to the lighthouse.

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There are views of sandy beaches across the estuary to Mid Wales or to the tip of the Llyn Peninsula.

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This part of Wales is wet and the peninsula is wooded with what is described as temperate rain forest. The natural vegetation is oak, birch and rowan with alder and willow in wet areas. The Victorians planted large specimen trees, including Douglas firs, redwoods and tree ferns as well as azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. Miles of footpaths explore the woodland.

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Clough Williams Ellis was responsible for constructing two lakes and the Chinese pagoda and bridge.

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These are reached by quite a steep climb from the village and there is a land train which takes visitors on a circuit of the lakes.

On a nice day, it is very easy to spend all day exploring the village and surrounding estate. There are cafes and restaurants in the village as well as ice creams!

Website and map
 
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ITV - The Village (Episode 1 28 Apr 2020)

Series overview

This four-part series follows a year in the life of Portmeirion - the magical Italianate village in north Wales, that was home to ITV's 1960s cult series The Prisoner. The Village meets some of the men and women who are Portmeirion's guardians, helping to run what is now one of Wales’ biggest visitor attractions. From the gardener and resident artist , to the painter and decorator - each tells what it takes to keep the landmark constantly updated and restored. The series captures the beauty of life in each of the four seasons, on a site that's been described as ‘an illusion; a playful contradiction." Portmeirion looks like an ancient Italian village, but was created between 1925 and 1973 by the visionary architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis. Now his grandson, Robin Llywelyn leads the team which runs it today.

Produced and Directed by Aled Llyr
Executive Producer Jonathan Hill
A Slam Media production for ITV

Episode 1

In this first episode, we get to know the men and women who are the guardians of this magical Italianate village.
 

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